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Florida's Natural Escape

Let us be honest - many of us who enjoy the sunshine state totally ignore north Florida on our way southward to its lavish and sometimes overwhelmed tropical destinations. If so, we are doing ourselves a great disservice especially if the goal is a low-maintenance family getaway in a natural setting. In fact, heading farther south is not necessary as some of the most astounding examples of our nation's tropical natural resources can be found in the panhandle. Just south of the Alabama/Georgia State line confluence and in the vicinity of Tallahassee's very user-friendly airport, lies environmentally serene and ecologically-rich Franklin County. Named after Benjamin Franklin, the County is accurately and appropriately billed as a Florida's Natural Escape, very modestly waiting for the creative as well as the nature-appreciating traveler.

So what is so unique about a region many Florida travelers may not have even heard of? For starters, 87% of Franklin County is in either state or federally protected parkland or nature preserve. The rest comprised of thoughtfully preserved communities conspicuously lacking high rises and interspersed with friendly neighborhoods and historically significant attractions. Stop and think about this - a county, with a permanent resident population of 10,000, has voluntarily preserved 500 acres of premium and pristine forest, wetlands, 200 miles of coastline and beaches forever. This astounding complete absence of sprawl will make anyone think twice about expending the additional time and effort to continue to the vast overly engineered and landscaped destinations in South Florida they have been conditioned to seek out.

These creative growth controls do not in any way mean the absence of modern amenities such as meticulously planned historic and contemporary beach communities. This also goes for the cozy county seat of Apalachicola - or “Aplach” as the locals say - where Mayberry meets Old Florida. A few steps in any Aplach direction will reveal an effective sprinkling of quaint shops, historic buildings, docked boats, inns, unique restaurants and even an outdoor concert among work and pleasure boats - almost as it looked and felt 50 years ago. An excellent snapshot of this quality, as well as a fun rest stop, is the Old Time Soda Fountain Gift and Shells on Market Street, a modest cross between a soda fountain of old and gift shop specializing in shells and the best ice cream cones. Nothing captured the town's spirit better than a sign on the entrance saying “Our restroom is for anyone who needs it - come on in”. Try to find that in the big city.

Pedestrian-friendly Aplach is mindful of both it's natural resources heritage and responsibility to encourage commerce by preserving shopping districts and visitor attractions along with 200 historic buildings dating from the 1830s - all the while showcasing the maritime culture and fishing fleets as part of a “working waterfront” and downtown area. Franklin County considers its seafood industry, the backbone of its culture and heritage, a matter of pride with workboats literally sprinkled among the charters and sailboats rather than relegated to some “other” part of town.

As an asset, the working waterfront is incorporated into Aplach's revitalization promoting this classic community as sort of an endangered species unto itself in contrast to other overly paved destinations. One can easily visualize Forrest Gump puttering back from a successful shrimping expedition to unload his bounty among historic antique shops and outdoor waterfront festivals. Seafood is not only the paramount industry but is also the must-eat staple of the local eating establishments and most restaurant menus are delightfully unpredictable for no other reason than a community-wide commitment to serve only what is caught locally at that time - which can vary based on the fickle yet productive critter soup of the Apalachicola Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.

Make no mistake - living at one with nature does not mean you have to rough it or go without the family-friendly and premium relaxation experience many search for in a vacation. Here, nature is to be enjoyed - not avoided. Accommodations are numerous as the recreational opportunities and thoughtful planners have strategically intertwined modest and luxury sized condos, homes, historic inns, hotels and vacation rentals in the communities and waterfront areas of Carrabelle, Alligator Point, Dog Island, Eastpoint, St. George Island, and St. Vincent Island - none of which is too big to enjoy on foot or by bike. These communities mix old and new Florida around intersection communities thoughtfully interspersed with contemporary housing and waterfront access.

Not surprisingly, some of the most modern yet competitively priced real estate in the entire region can be found here whether renting or buying. A few exemplary selections ideal for families include St. James Bay - an Audubon International Certified Silver Signature Sanctuary new golf course development, Picketts and Pirate's Landings in Carrabelle and Harbor Point Realty in Alligator Point providing easy waterfront access. For something different, Aplach offers the historic Victorian era Gibson Inn, Coombs Inn B & B, as well as affordable yet modern waterfront hotels and properties including the new Water Street Hotel & Marina. For beachfront on the Gulf of Mexico, the sandy strip of St. George Island offers an astounding selection of styles and sizes of cottages, bungalows and condos. My favorite area is the east end of the island at St. George's Island State Park which terminates the serene barrier island - combining all the comforts of a pristine beach and nature preserve without excessive crowds.

To truly revel in the County's horn of plenty, is to enjoy the juxtaposition of these amenities against the backdrop of the most notable of its qualities - the incredible abundance of unique natural resources. The ecologically inclined will quickly realize that this region is not only at the southern most reach of the east coast's temperate ecosystems but is also in the Florida subtropical zone. This unique blend of habitats in the Panhandle region along with the mixing of fresh and salt water fauna provides a very rare and astoundingly diverse ecosystem of its own with record numbers of plant and animal communities rarely seen elsewhere - including the old Florida look of live oaks and Spanish moss, Tupelo forests (where the honey comes from), as well as a plethora of rare species including loggerhead sea turtles and bald eagles, dwarf cypress swamps and numerous birds.

The crown jewel of the area is the nation's second largest estuarine preserve - the Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve (ANERR) - where fresh water fisheries mix with salt water making a resource so productive and pristine that numerous government agencies and scientists from all over the world manage and study this area concurrently. As one might imagine hiking, cycling, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, birding and camping rule here. The ANERR is a national renowned “biological hotspot” and one of the last ecosystems of its kind comprising 1300 species of plants, 131 species of fish and over 50 species of mammals including black bears and manatees. Try the ANERR boat tour for a rare glimpse of the tupelo honey wetlands, bald eagles and an excellent view of Aplach's waterfront when departing and approaching.

Other premium natural preserves include Bald Point State Park, Tate's Hell State Forest, St. George's Island State Park, Apalachicola National Forest, and St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge. Try the High Bluff Hiking and Deep Creek Birding Trails at Tate's Hell for pristine cypress wetlands and birding. St. Vincent's provides the most remote habitat and photographic opportunities. St. George's is the best for beaching it and biking - as is the whole island. Bald Point has even more similar opportunities plus the best Black Bear viewing. Guided ecotours provide access to hard-to-reach habitats and some environmental education on the sly. Go with the comfortable tour boats or do it yourself with canoes or kayaks. Try Book Me a Charter for their oyster culture tour including oystering lessons and the Wind Catcher and Peregrine for an authentic sailing experience on vintage restored sloops. My favorite is Journeys of St. George Island providing any manner of ecotour available including its Bounty of the Bay tour taking as many as five persons for a three-hour trip. The captain will show children and adults how to cast for mullet, pull in blue crab traps and hog for oysters in the bay.

Do not underestimate the purity of relaxing on the dock of a seafood restaurant at sunset after a dinner of Grouper or Red Snapper. As the day fades to moonlight, denizens of urban areas will not only appreciate the salt air, the sounds of rolling surf and the stirrings of nocturnal nature but also the absence of artificial light, noise and any need to plan. Don't feel guilty - you earned it.

For more information

www.anaturalescape.com

www.cityofapalachicola.com

www.seestgeorgeisland.com

www.apalachicolabay.org

www.carrabelle.org

Getting a Room

The following rental firms can hook you up with any manner of residence you need for the family - and also provide extensive tourist and travel info

Vacation rentals (and purchases):

Resort Vacation Properties, St. George Island, FL, 800 880 5069, www.rvpsgi.com

Century21 Collins Realty, St. George Island, FL, 866 382 4290, www.century21collinsrealty.com

Collins Vacation Rental, St. George Island, FL, 866 723 9460, www.collinsvacationrentals.com

Some specific outstanding resorts:

Picket's Landing, Carrabelle, FL, 850 566 6761, www.pickettslanding.com

Incredibly serene condo pockets of comfort with old south charm, a pool and marina

Harbor Point Realty, Alligator Point, FL, 850 349 9599, ty.com" www.harborpointrealty.com

Various rentals including coastal cottages, marina townhouses and bay-front homes

Pirates Landing, Carrabelle, FL, 850 697 4331, www.dontwishfish.com (their motto)

St. James Bay, Carrabelle, FL, 877 577 7177, www.baysiderealtyinc.com

An Audubon International Certified Silver Signature Sanctuary, this is the contemporary place to stay for “green golfing” among meticulously preserved natural areas and wetlands

Historic accommodations:

Old Carrabelle Hotel B&B, 201 Tallahassee St., Carrabelle, 850 697 9010, www.oldcarrabellehotel.com

A Key West style 1880 inn

Coombs House Inn B&B, 80 Sixth St., Apalachicola, FL, 888 244 8320, www.coombshouseinn.com

A member of Select Registry and American Historic Inns, this is a premier 1911 Victorian mansion

Gibson Inn, 51 Avenue C, Apalachicola, FL, 850 653 2191, www.gibsoninn.com

Another National Register of Historic Places Victorian-era Inn, fully restored in 1985

Some dining suggestions

Tiki Hut at Pirate's Landing, 275 Timber Island Rd., Carrabelle, FL, 850 528 1414

One of my favorite casual dining eateries on the Carrabelle River for all manner of seafood

Crooked River Grill, St. James Bay's

One of the best signature link-side restaurants for dining indoors or on the patio overlooking the golf course

Carrabelle Junction, 88 Tallahassee St., Carrabelle, FL, 850 697 9550

My favorite most casual of dining retro 1950s soda fountain eatery with a sprinkling of modern fare and museum quality memorabilia randomly scattered throughout.

That Place, 17 Avenue E, Apalachicola, FL, 850 653 9898

More great casual dining with local specialties

Papa Joe's Oyster Bar and Grill, Apalachicola, FL, 850 653 1189

The place for oysters

Tamara's Café Floridita, 71 Market St., Apalachicola, FL, 850 653 4111, NK "http://www.tamarascafe.com" www.tamarascafe.com

Veranda's Bistro, upstairs at the corner of Highway 98 and Avenue D, Apalachicola, FL

850 653 3210, www.verandasbistro.com

A perfect place to enjoy an in-house wine selection and tasting

Lafayette Park, center of Apalachicola's historic home district

Perfect for a picnic, this waterfront showcase features a perfect rest area with a long fishing pier

The great outdoors

Book me a Charter, 850 653 2622, www.bookmeacharter.com

Journeys of St. George Island, 850 927 3259, www.sgislandjourneys.com

Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve, the nature center and boat tour is at 261 7th St., Apalachicola, 850 670 4783, www.dep.state.fl.us/coastal/sites/apalachicola/info.htm

Bald Point State Park, 850 349 9146, /www.floridastateparks.org/baldpoint/default.cfm" www.floridastateparks.org/baldpoint/default.cfm

Tate's Hell State Forest, 850 697 3734, www.fl-dof.com/state_forests/tates_hell.html

St. George's Island State Park, 850 927 2111, www.floridastateparks.org/stgeorgeisland

Apalachicola National Forest, 850 643 2282, www.fs.fed.us/r8/florida/apalachicola

St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge, 850 653 8808, www.fws.gov/saintvincent

CROOKED RIVER LIGHTHOUSE

Historical attractions

Crooked River Lighthouse, Carrabelle, www.crookedriverlighthouse.org

A 112-year-old lighthouse with a great view

St. George Island Visitor Center and Lighthouse Museum., www.seestgeorgeisland.com

Best view and photo op on the island

Camp Gordon Johnston World War II Museum, 302 Marine St., Carrabelle

www.campgordonjohnston.com

A small yet efficient dedication to the WWII amphibious forces who trained in Carrabelle site comprised of fascinating locally held and collected artifacts form the greatest generation

Raney House Museum, 128 Market St., Apalachicola, 850 653 1700, www.apalachicolahistory.org

Apalachicola Maritime Museum, 103 Water St., Apalachicola, FL, YPERLINK "http://www.ammfl.org" www.ammfl.org

Best hands-on learning of the area's maritime history - do not a pass up a sailing excursion with educational tales of marine heritage on the replica of the vintage ketch The Heritage

Orman House State Park

An 1838 Greek revival home overlooking the Apalachicola River

Apalachicola Vietnam Veterans Memorial Park

Features a replica of the statue at the National Mall in Washington D.C.

John Gorrie Museum State Park

Commemorates the unusual topic of an ice machine invention to cool yellow fever patients' rooms leading to the first U.S. patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851

Shopping

The best shopping in the entire county is in the pedestrian friendly main street area in historic downtown Apalachicola

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