Arizona

Real Travel Adventures International Magazine

Send this Page to a Friend

Flag of Arizona

A VISIT TO INDIAN COUNTRY:Part I: Hopi

By Steve Fey

I remember waiting for the sunrise on Second Mesa, about a quarter of a mile from the Hopi Hotel. I watch a feral mongrel sniffing around the piñon at the edge of the bluff. She's the only one moving among the group of adults and teenagers gathered silently to await the awn. We are rewarded with

three distinct sunrises as the sun passes layers of cloud near the horizon. As the sun washes the Painted Desert in glory, we return to the hotel feeling a part of something beautiful. Beauty is everywhere in this austere

four-corners setting.

It's easy to find a good spot on Second Mesa to watch the sun come up. Sunset is tougher to see because getting to a good place to see it involves crossing people's back yards. Luckily the leader and organizer of our trip has been coming here for many decades, so the local people know him and allow him some indulgences.

Sunrise or sunset can both be disorienting here because watching the sun cross the horizon lets you sense the planet moving. It's an

example of how life in this desert can be a humbling experience. I was on the Hopi Mesas last Spring with a group of adults accompanying thirty-six ninth grade students on a journey to discover different cultures.

Luckily, there are two distinctly different cultures living nearby in the four corners area. The differences between the Hopi and Navajo enhance the experience for the students and provide interest for the adults. The educational goals are for the students to learn about respect for others,how to deal with cultural differences, and quite a bit about building a

community, and frequently form lifetime friendships. Interestingly, the same thing seems to happen for the "responsible adults."

Steve Fey Hopi Going Into Toadlena Trading Pos

You don't need to be a part of any organized group to enjoy a visit to the

Hopi and Navajo. To get the most out of your visit you should, however, observe a few basic rules of courtesy. I'll write more about these as I go. For now, just remember that you are a guest in someone else's homeland.

Of the two cultures, the Hopi people seem to be more outgoing. This may be because nobody, not even the famous Kit Carson, has been foolish enough to try to get them to leave their ancestral home. That land is situated atop

high bluffs and accessible only by narrow roads. Most Hopi live on one of three "fingers" extending from Black Mesa, named respectively First Mesa, Second Mesa, and Third Mesa. Ironically, the settlements on Third Mesa are the oldest. The village of Oraibe on Third Mesa is the oldest continuously

occupied settlement in North America, with buildings dating back at least a millennium.

A resident of Third Mesa told me that third mesa people consider the residents of First Mesa to be more "progressive." It appeared to me that he was right. (I did see some DISHT TV receivers on First Mesa, though.) It was

on First Mesa that I came across the greatest bargains in crafts I saw during my time in the area. This was in the village of Sichomovi, one of three villages on the mesa.

From time to time a sign will be posted warning of a ceremony in progress in one of the villages. To the Hopi these ceremonies are like a Sunday morning service in church. This means that if you want to attend one you should

dress conservatively (long skirts for women, for example) and act with decorum. Some of the ceremonies are closed to the public but many are open. For more details on what the Hopi expect by way of etiquette from visitors

to their ceremonies, visit their web site

A Hopi man who spoke to our youth put it this way. Imagine a busload of Hopi walking through your yard and peeking in your windows. If that seems like it would bother you, then don't do it to the Hopi when you visit. In particular, there is no photography allowed in the Hopi villages. The Hopi have bad memories of people who have misused photographs of them either for profit without permission, or to misrepresent what the Hopi believe.

Archeologists used to wonder what happened to the Anasazi people who abandoned so many towns in the Southwest. In fact nothing happened to them, except that they now call themselves Hopi and live on three Mesas. The Hopi don't like the term Anasazi, because it means "ancient enemy." Hopi have no

enemies, at least not intentionally, so they prefer it if others don't think of them that way. Most of the ruins still talk about the former inhabitants using that word.

First Mesa is the best place to get crafts directly from the artisans who create the work. One of my companions bought a pot from the potter's brother, paying $50 for an item that would have sold for $250 to $300 in

area shops. Other common items for sale include Katsinas (often spelled Katchinas,) that were selling for a fraction of what you'd expect to pay in an actual store, exquisitely crafted silver jewelry and hand woven baskets.

A note about Katsinas. You will find many places on and off the reservations selling "Kachinas" that may or may not be authentic Hopi. Many times you will see "Navajo Kachinas" for sale. Buy them if you wish, but you should know that the Katsinas are not a part of Navajo tradition. To be sure of an

authentic Katsina doll, buy it from an authentic Hopi.

The Hopi people seem naturally outgoing, but one reason we were treated so especially well is that we were respectful of the people living in the villages and of their shrines and privacy. Once I got to know the residents of the village a bit, I found their sense of humor and their generosity both to be extraordinary.

There are several places to buy fine items in Hopi. For instance, at the Tsakurshovi Hopi Arts and Crafts Gallery on Second Mesa you can buy a T-Shirt with the message, "Don't Worry, Be Hopi!" It isn't a native handicraft, but a lot of people including me buy one anyway. Prices for crafts in shops on the mesas range from a couple of dollars up to whatever

you'd care to spend. For consistently top-quality items, I'd recommend the Monongya Gallery on First Mesa just outside of the village of Oraibe. There are also vendors who set up beside the road, in particular next to the Hopi

Hotel on Second Mesa. The items for sale are almost always of excellent quality. Also adjacent to the hotel is the Hopi Arts and Crafts Cooperative Guild, where there is not only a wide selection of items available, but where you can get broken jewelry repaired.

The most striking difference between Hopi culture and the larger American culture is that we always seem to want to "move on" while they have watched centuries pass from the mesa. For more information on their culture,

history, and beliefs, visit the Hopi Cultural Center on Second Mesa. You can start by visiting The Official Hopi Preservation Office web site at Here

-- Continued in Part Two Next Month

______________________

Real Travel Adventures Web Magazine

Thanks for visiting us!

Add to Bookmarks

___________________________

Home Previous Page Next Page

__________________________

If any links don't work

PLEASE NOTIFY US.

International Magazine Back Roads Home Article List Arts&Crafts BackRoads CampVentures Cruises Dine&Sleep FamilyTrips FavoriteFinds KidsOnTheGo Nature'sBest NearYou OurWorld SkiTrips Spas/Retreats SpecialPeople TravelHumor TravelNews Unbelievable WeddingTrips Books&Audio ContactUs Archives Archives2003 Travel Adventures Stories & Pix Free Monthly Subscriptions	Back Roads Travel Adventures	Real Travel Adventures International Magazine Home Index For Back Roads Travel Adventures In Search of a Maritime Dream A Visit To Indian Country:Part II A VISIT TO INDIAN COUNTRY:Part I: Hopi A Cool Trip to Take in August When Temperatures Soar in the Southwest Trip to the Smokies Blue Skies Return To Southwest Colorado York, PA Factory Tour Capital The Second Largest Paris in the World! Slidell, Louisiana Swamp Tour © 2003 Bonita Productions Inc. <\| %%
	Real Travel Adventures International Magazine Send this Page to a Friend Flag of Arizona A VISIT TO INDIAN COUNTRY:Part I: Hopi By Steve Fey I remember waiting for the sunrise on Second Mesa, about a quarter of a mile from the Hopi Hotel. I watch a feral mongrel sniffing around the piñon at the edge of the bluff. She's the only one moving among the group of adults and teenagers gathered silently to await the awn. We are rewarded with three distinct sunrises as the sun passes layers of cloud near the horizon. As the sun washes the Painted Desert in glory, we return to the hotel feeling a part of something beautiful. Beauty is everywhere in this austere four-corners setting. It's easy to find a good spot on Second Mesa to watch the sun come up. Sunset is tougher to see because getting to a good place to see it involves crossing people's back yards. Luckily the leader and organizer of our trip has been coming here for many decades, so the local people know him and allow him some indulgences. Sunrise or sunset can both be disorienting here because watching the sun cross the horizon lets you sense the planet moving. It's an example of how life in this desert can be a humbling experience. I was on the Hopi Mesas last Spring with a group of adults accompanying thirty-six ninth grade students on a journey to discover different cultures. Luckily, there are two distinctly different cultures living nearby in the four corners area. The differences between the Hopi and Navajo enhance the experience for the students and provide interest for the adults. The educational goals are for the students to learn about respect for others,how to deal with cultural differences, and quite a bit about building a community, and frequently form lifetime friendships. Interestingly, the same thing seems to happen for the "responsible adults." You don't need to be a part of any organized group to enjoy a visit to the Hopi and Navajo. To get the most out of your visit you should, however, observe a few basic rules of courtesy. I'll write more about these as I go. For now, just remember that you are a guest in someone else's homeland. Of the two cultures, the Hopi people seem to be more outgoing. This may be because nobody, not even the famous Kit Carson, has been foolish enough to try to get them to leave their ancestral home. That land is situated atop high bluffs and accessible only by narrow roads. Most Hopi live on one of three "fingers" extending from Black Mesa, named respectively First Mesa, Second Mesa, and Third Mesa. Ironically, the settlements on Third Mesa are the oldest. The village of Oraibe on Third Mesa is the oldest continuously occupied settlement in North America, with buildings dating back at least a millennium. A resident of Third Mesa told me that third mesa people consider the residents of First Mesa to be more "progressive." It appeared to me that he was right. (I did see some DISHT TV receivers on First Mesa, though.) It was on First Mesa that I came across the greatest bargains in crafts I saw during my time in the area. This was in the village of Sichomovi, one of three villages on the mesa. From time to time a sign will be posted warning of a ceremony in progress in one of the villages. To the Hopi these ceremonies are like a Sunday morning service in church. This means that if you want to attend one you should dress conservatively (long skirts for women, for example) and act with decorum. Some of the ceremonies are closed to the public but many are open. For more details on what the Hopi expect by way of etiquette from visitors to their ceremonies, visit their web site A Hopi man who spoke to our youth put it this way. Imagine a busload of Hopi walking through your yard and peeking in your windows. If that seems like it would bother you, then don't do it to the Hopi when you visit. In particular, there is no photography allowed in the Hopi villages. The Hopi have bad memories of people who have misused photographs of them either for profit without permission, or to misrepresent what the Hopi believe. Archeologists used to wonder what happened to the Anasazi people who abandoned so many towns in the Southwest. In fact nothing happened to them, except that they now call themselves Hopi and live on three Mesas. The Hopi don't like the term Anasazi, because it means "ancient enemy." Hopi have no enemies, at least not intentionally, so they prefer it if others don't think of them that way. Most of the ruins still talk about the former inhabitants using that word. First Mesa is the best place to get crafts directly from the artisans who create the work. One of my companions bought a pot from the potter's brother, paying $50 for an item that would have sold for $250 to $300 in area shops. Other common items for sale include Katsinas (often spelled Katchinas,) that were selling for a fraction of what you'd expect to pay in an actual store, exquisitely crafted silver jewelry and hand woven baskets. A note about Katsinas. You will find many places on and off the reservations selling "Kachinas" that may or may not be authentic Hopi. Many times you will see "Navajo Kachinas" for sale. Buy them if you wish, but you should know that the Katsinas are not a part of Navajo tradition. To be sure of an authentic Katsina doll, buy it from an authentic Hopi. The Hopi people seem naturally outgoing, but one reason we were treated so especially well is that we were respectful of the people living in the villages and of their shrines and privacy. Once I got to know the residents of the village a bit, I found their sense of humor and their generosity both to be extraordinary. There are several places to buy fine items in Hopi. For instance, at the Tsakurshovi Hopi Arts and Crafts Gallery on Second Mesa you can buy a T-Shirt with the message, "Don't Worry, Be Hopi!" It isn't a native handicraft, but a lot of people including me buy one anyway. Prices for crafts in shops on the mesas range from a couple of dollars up to whatever you'd care to spend. For consistently top-quality items, I'd recommend the Monongya Gallery on First Mesa just outside of the village of Oraibe. There are also vendors who set up beside the road, in particular next to the Hopi Hotel on Second Mesa. The items for sale are almost always of excellent quality. Also adjacent to the hotel is the Hopi Arts and Crafts Cooperative Guild, where there is not only a wide selection of items available, but where you can get broken jewelry repaired. The most striking difference between Hopi culture and the larger American culture is that we always seem to want to "move on" while they have watched centuries pass from the mesa. For more information on their culture, history, and beliefs, visit the Hopi Cultural Center on Second Mesa. You can start by visiting The Official Hopi Preservation Office web site at Here -- Continued in Part Two Next Month ______________________ Real Travel Adventures Web Magazine Thanks for visiting us! Add to Bookmarks ___________________________ Home Previous Page Next Page __________________________ © 2004 Bonita Productions Inc. If any links don't work PLEASE NOTIFY US.