Dartmouth, Devon-Off the Beaten Path in Search of a Maritime Dream

Real Travel Adventures International Magazine

Send this Page to a Friend

Flag of Great Britain

Dartmouth, Devon-Off the Beaten Path in Search of a Maritime Dream

By Celia Spence

Not having chosen to study abroad as did many of my peers at the small college I attend, it was by a stroke of luck that I came to have the opportunity to travel to Great Britain for a semester to study at the Royal Naval College in Devonshire, the British equivalent of the United States Naval Academy. While most of my time was spent on the college grounds, my early morning runs through the town and few weekends' liberty offered me the chance to explore the area-restaurants, museums, trails, and history.

Off the well-worn paths of most vacationers, the coast of Devon is a prime vacation spot if you don't mind straying from the attractions of Bath, Exeter, or London. Thankfully, the trains in Great Britain link most cities and towns to one another even if a taxi is necessary in order to arrive at your final destination; Dartmouth is one of these places. From London (Heathrow), I took a bus to Reading so as to catch the train southbound towards the Devon coast. The three hour plus ride took me through stops such as Exeter, Newton Abbot, and southwards toward aptly my final stop at Totnes, Devon.

Knowing in advance that I would be taking a taxi from there to Dartmouth, I left the station to find a row of cabs waiting on the other side of the wrought-iron fence. My ride from Totnes to Dartmouth was possibly the most harrowing experience in my life to date due to a network of two-way roads only wide enough for about a car and a half. (If you go, be prepared for a similar experience. The country roads, while winding through beautiful hills, do wind and may cause moderate discomfort.)

Upon catching a glimpse of signage pointing to Britannia Royal Naval College, I had but a short time to catch my breath before descending a steep hill to the college gate where I began my journey into the world of the Royal Navy and the history of the town of Dartmouth.

The naval college, hereafter known as BRNC (Britannia Royal Naval College), is situated on a hill overlooking the mouth of the River Dart, which empties into the English Channel nearly directly across from the famous shores at Normandy where troops landed in 1944 amidst heavy fire from the Germans. (You know the rest of the story.) In fact, under the college runs a labyrinth of tunnels dug to protect naval personnel from bombing runs. The buildings themselves are majestic, built in the Edwardian fashion at the turn of the century to house midshipmen and sub-lieutenants during their study to become commissioned officers in the Royal Navy.

Although as a student I never took an official tour, they are available to the public during the weekdays and some weekends by calling the tour office at 01803-834224. Most tours commence at 1400 and you should allow approximately two hours. You will be led through the chapel area, along the Quarterdeck, through the Senior Gunroom (the mess hall and banquet facility for the senior students), and various points of interest throughout the college. Please keep in mind, though, that the grounds are not wheelchair friendly. There are many stairs and few ramps save the long hill approaching the buildings.

After about two weeks of classes, I was lucky enough to secure liberty on a weekend so as to traipse about in town and explore the culture-the civilian culture-of Dartmouth. I booked a room at a local hotel, the Royal Castle, and enjoyed a real bed and meal for the first time since arriving. There are a number of excellent accommodations in Dartmouth proper, and can be found on the town. Click here . Rooms can tend to be a bit pricey during the summer but are generally very good quality and worth the expense.

Britannia Royal Naval College, Devon England

As a student with little money and a secure room at BRNC, I didn't to stay in town often; most of my discretionary budget was spent on food at local eateries, of which there are many. For great pub food, I would recommend either the Dartmouth Arms, located at Bayard's Cove, or Ship in Dock, both of which serve excellent food and are moderately priced. If you plan to splurge on a nice dinner out, dine at Alf Resco, which usually offers a set meal. If you prefer a waterfront restaurant, go to the New Angel, where chef John Burton Race creates wonderful dishes such as local scallops with lentils and boned quail with peach.

Everything in Dartmouth is within walking distance of wherever you might stay, so a car is neither needed nor desirable. (There are few parking places in town, and most are reserved for residents.) About a mile and a half from the town center stands Dartmouth Castle, reachable from both road and coastal path. While there, you can enjoy afternoon tea and visit the museum. Hang a right and continue along the coastal path up into the Devon hills, which offer an incredible view of the Channel. If nature walks aren't your thing, walk back into town for a pint at any one of a number of local pubs.

For a different, yet equally historical, day out, head down to the waterfront and reserve a spot on one of the Riverlink cruises up the Dart. There are many options as to which cruise to take, but I would recommend that which sails from Dartmouth to Totnes and includes numerous villages, along with the boathouse of Sir Walter Raleigh and the estate of the late detective story writer, Dame Agatha Christie.

In town are several attractions such as the Dartmouth Museum, chronicling the rich maritime history of the village, the Royal Avenue Gardens, and many small art galleries with works of local artists. If you are in town during August, check out the Dartmouth Shakespeare Week and the Royal Regatta; if in May, the Dartmouth Music Festival.

Although my stay in Dartmouth spanned but four months, it was time enough to experience a vast majority of those things available in the small seaside town. I look fondly back on the days spent outside the boundaries of BRNC as, although beautiful from a distance, living at the naval college was much like spending your school years at the likes of West Point or Annapolis-great for tourists, not-so-great for insiders. The town, although small, is rich in culture and offers much to the tourist who wants to step off the path to Stonehenge and Stratford to experience something of the maritime life, both civilian and military.

______________________

Real Travel Adventures Web Magazine

Thanks for visiting us!

Add to Bookmarks

___________________________

Home Previous Page

__________________________

If any links don't work

PLEASE NOTIFY US.

International Magazine Back Roads Home Article List Arts&Crafts BackRoads CampVentures Cruises Dine&Sleep FamilyTrips FavoriteFinds KidsOnTheGo Nature'sBest NearYou OurWorld SkiTrips Spas/Retreats SpecialPeople TravelHumor TravelNews Unbelievable WeddingTrips Books&Audio ContactUs Archives Archives2003 Travel Adventures Stories & Pix Free Monthly Subscriptions	Back Roads Travel Adventures Dartmouth, Devon-Off the Beaten Path in Search of a Maritime Dream	Real Travel Adventures International Magazine Home Index For Back Roads Travel Adventures In Search of a Maritime Dream A Visit To Indian Country:Part II A VISIT TO INDIAN COUNTRY:Part I: Hopi A Cool Trip to Take in August When Temperatures Soar in the Southwest Trip to the Smokies Blue Skies Return To Southwest Colorado York, PA Factory Tour Capital The Second Largest Paris in the World! Slidell, Louisiana Swamp Tour © 2003 Bonita Productions Inc. <\| %%
	Real Travel Adventures International Magazine Send this Page to a Friend Flag of Great Britain Dartmouth, Devon-Off the Beaten Path in Search of a Maritime Dream By Celia Spence Not having chosen to study abroad as did many of my peers at the small college I attend, it was by a stroke of luck that I came to have the opportunity to travel to Great Britain for a semester to study at the Royal Naval College in Devonshire, the British equivalent of the United States Naval Academy. While most of my time was spent on the college grounds, my early morning runs through the town and few weekends' liberty offered me the chance to explore the area-restaurants, museums, trails, and history. Off the well-worn paths of most vacationers, the coast of Devon is a prime vacation spot if you don't mind straying from the attractions of Bath, Exeter, or London. Thankfully, the trains in Great Britain link most cities and towns to one another even if a taxi is necessary in order to arrive at your final destination; Dartmouth is one of these places. From London (Heathrow), I took a bus to Reading so as to catch the train southbound towards the Devon coast. The three hour plus ride took me through stops such as Exeter, Newton Abbot, and southwards toward aptly my final stop at Totnes, Devon. Knowing in advance that I would be taking a taxi from there to Dartmouth, I left the station to find a row of cabs waiting on the other side of the wrought-iron fence. My ride from Totnes to Dartmouth was possibly the most harrowing experience in my life to date due to a network of two-way roads only wide enough for about a car and a half. (If you go, be prepared for a similar experience. The country roads, while winding through beautiful hills, do wind and may cause moderate discomfort.) Upon catching a glimpse of signage pointing to Britannia Royal Naval College, I had but a short time to catch my breath before descending a steep hill to the college gate where I began my journey into the world of the Royal Navy and the history of the town of Dartmouth. The naval college, hereafter known as BRNC (Britannia Royal Naval College), is situated on a hill overlooking the mouth of the River Dart, which empties into the English Channel nearly directly across from the famous shores at Normandy where troops landed in 1944 amidst heavy fire from the Germans. (You know the rest of the story.) In fact, under the college runs a labyrinth of tunnels dug to protect naval personnel from bombing runs. The buildings themselves are majestic, built in the Edwardian fashion at the turn of the century to house midshipmen and sub-lieutenants during their study to become commissioned officers in the Royal Navy. Although as a student I never took an official tour, they are available to the public during the weekdays and some weekends by calling the tour office at 01803-834224. Most tours commence at 1400 and you should allow approximately two hours. You will be led through the chapel area, along the Quarterdeck, through the Senior Gunroom (the mess hall and banquet facility for the senior students), and various points of interest throughout the college. Please keep in mind, though, that the grounds are not wheelchair friendly. There are many stairs and few ramps save the long hill approaching the buildings. After about two weeks of classes, I was lucky enough to secure liberty on a weekend so as to traipse about in town and explore the culture-the civilian culture-of Dartmouth. I booked a room at a local hotel, the Royal Castle, and enjoyed a real bed and meal for the first time since arriving. There are a number of excellent accommodations in Dartmouth proper, and can be found on the town. Click here . Rooms can tend to be a bit pricey during the summer but are generally very good quality and worth the expense. As a student with little money and a secure room at BRNC, I didn't to stay in town often; most of my discretionary budget was spent on food at local eateries, of which there are many. For great pub food, I would recommend either the Dartmouth Arms, located at Bayard's Cove, or Ship in Dock, both of which serve excellent food and are moderately priced. If you plan to splurge on a nice dinner out, dine at Alf Resco, which usually offers a set meal. If you prefer a waterfront restaurant, go to the New Angel, where chef John Burton Race creates wonderful dishes such as local scallops with lentils and boned quail with peach. Everything in Dartmouth is within walking distance of wherever you might stay, so a car is neither needed nor desirable. (There are few parking places in town, and most are reserved for residents.) About a mile and a half from the town center stands Dartmouth Castle, reachable from both road and coastal path. While there, you can enjoy afternoon tea and visit the museum. Hang a right and continue along the coastal path up into the Devon hills, which offer an incredible view of the Channel. If nature walks aren't your thing, walk back into town for a pint at any one of a number of local pubs. For a different, yet equally historical, day out, head down to the waterfront and reserve a spot on one of the Riverlink cruises up the Dart. There are many options as to which cruise to take, but I would recommend that which sails from Dartmouth to Totnes and includes numerous villages, along with the boathouse of Sir Walter Raleigh and the estate of the late detective story writer, Dame Agatha Christie. In town are several attractions such as the Dartmouth Museum, chronicling the rich maritime history of the village, the Royal Avenue Gardens, and many small art galleries with works of local artists. If you are in town during August, check out the Dartmouth Shakespeare Week and the Royal Regatta; if in May, the Dartmouth Music Festival. Although my stay in Dartmouth spanned but four months, it was time enough to experience a vast majority of those things available in the small seaside town. I look fondly back on the days spent outside the boundaries of BRNC as, although beautiful from a distance, living at the naval college was much like spending your school years at the likes of West Point or Annapolis-great for tourists, not-so-great for insiders. The town, although small, is rich in culture and offers much to the tourist who wants to step off the path to Stonehenge and Stratford to experience something of the maritime life, both civilian and military. ______________________ Real Travel Adventures Web Magazine Thanks for visiting us! Add to Bookmarks ___________________________ Home Previous Page __________________________ © 2004 Bonita Productions Inc. If any links don't work PLEASE NOTIFY US.