Winjammin' of Panama Coast

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Flag of Panama

Windjammin'

by Robert Painter*

On a beautiful tropical night off the coast of Panama, we raised the sails and headed for the San Blas Islands. The haunting bagpipe refrain of Amazing Grace sounded at each raising of the sails, but this was the first time and it was inspiring. Sailing into the darkness with the stars blazing above we could have been the only people on earth. The evening began with a pair of shooting stars and a view of the Milky Way that I haven’t seen in many, many years. The light wind filling the sails and the waves tossing the small ship made it clear that this would be an adventure.

The S/V Mandalay was once thought of as one of the most luxurious yachts in the world, having been commissioned by and built for E. F. Hutton and his wife Marjorie Merriweather Post. Although a beautiful ship it apparently wasn’t magnificent enough for Mrs. Hutton and they sold it and had another one built! After changing hands again the Hussar as it was originally named, became a floating laboratory for Columbia University and sailed over a million miles while confirming the theory of continental drift. This beautiful tall ship was purchased by Windjammer cruises in 1982 and renamed Mandalay.

Our destination on this fantastic voyage was the San Blas Islands and the fascinating culture of the Kuna Indians. At each small island where we anchored for the day we were met by several dugout canoes filled with Kuna men selling live crabs and lobsters, Kuna women displaying their fine molas and fancy beadwork bracelets and leg wraps, and Kuna families, some of whom apparently just wanted to paddle out to see our beautiful ship and its exotic inhabitants. And some, it seemed, just wished to show off their beautiful children who they brought along in the dugouts.

Going ashore was a treat on these small, coconut palm laden islands. The Kuna people were set up with their wares displayed on "clotheslines" for us to see. If we walked on the beach, or swam, we were not beleaguered by vendors as so often happens in many of the Caribbean islands. The Kunas were respectful of our wish to relax and enjoy their beautiful islands and only tried to sell us their items when we ventured among their displays to look at the beautiful, hand sewn molas. If, when approached, we said no thank you, that was usually accepted. Sometimes a vendor might lower the price once, but only once and then let it be.

The Kunas are a small, beautiful people. Their dress is colorful and they wear bracelets on their arms and almost completely cover the leg from ankle to knee with beadwork. There is some face painting and many have noses pierced with gold rings. And, they are laid back - literally! As a group, we were invited into a long house where community meetings are held and we were introduced to the island chief and a number two chief. Both reclined in hammocks during the meeting! There were four hammocks in the meeting house, the other two for lesser chiefs. It seems that this is the way they conduct the business of the island. The chiefs lie on their hammocks and listen to the community. The community makes decisions and the chief’s responsibility is to see that these decisions are carried out.

On the Mandalay, we were honored to have a young Kuna man, Gilberto, on board to tell us about his fellow Kuna people and to answer questions. He had been on a previous cruise and was staying on for the next. We were fortunate indeed to have a chance to meet and talk with him and listen as he explained much about the political structure and the interaction between the Kuna people and the Panama government. When you go I hope you’re lucky enough to have him on board. If not, rest assured that Captain Matt is very knowledgeable and will answer any questions you may have at Captain’s Storytime.

Each day begins with Bloody Marys served on deck, then breakfast, then Captain Matt’s Storytime. At Storytime, the Captain explains what’s happening for the day, where we are, where we’re going, what there is to see and do, when we have to be back at the ship and anything else we might need to know to have another fine day in Paradise.

In the San Blas, the sea, the beaches and the Kuna people are the main attractions. Most of us snorkeled, viewing the excellent variety of coral and colorful tropical fish, while being somewhat wary of the occasional hammerhead or nurse shark. They didn’t seem to mind so we didn’t bother them and they didn’t bother us. Surrounding most of the islands there is a reef about 50 to 75 yards offshore. The currents are generally light and swimming in and about the reefs is pretty easy. One island had a large wreck laying just offshore and this attracted a lot of fish, but is was an ugly wreck. Not an exotic sailing vessel, just an old plug of a cargo ship.

Those who didn’t snorkel could easily play in the shallow waters, paddle around in one of the windjammer’s ocean kayaks, or just lie in the sun . . . or in the shade under a palm tree.

On some days, the ship’s crew brought lunch to the island in the way of a cookout. Usually simple fare like hamburgers and hot dogs, sometimes grilled chicken along with cold, iced punch of some sort. But always a tasty delight, especially after a couple of hours of snorkeling or paddling. Other days lunch was served on deck, the tender taking only minutes to get from ship to shore. And, arriving back on board at the end of the day we were always greeted with our ration of Rum Swizzle for the day.

The evening meal was often served on deck as well, with only a few times served inside and that usually because of the weather - we did have a few rainy days but nothing that really curtailed our activities on the islands. The meals on board were not what you will find on a luxury liner. This is a windjammer and the idea here seems to be to have a fun trip, meet great people, enjoy the ship and enjoy the destination. The food is modest fare, served cheerfully by smiling crew and more than sufficient. Just remember that you didn’t have to prepare it, you’re on vacation and the people and the ship are far more important than the caviar and creme brulee you might find elsewhere.

That said, I will point out that on most cruise ships, flambe deserts are no longer allowed because of insurance and safety reasons. On the Mandalay, after the Captains Dinner on the last evening aboard (we were requested by the Captain to wear clean t shirts for this event, but were not required to wear shoes), we had a flambeed dessert to end all flambeed deserts. Laden with 151 Rum and who knows what else (I think it was bananas being cooked) and with one of the crew decked out in protective gear and fire extinguisher in hand, we were treated to the biggest blaze I’ve ever seen aboard any vessel that wasn’t burned down to the waterline! Exaggerating ... maybe, you’ll have to come aboard and see for yourself.

The key to a successful windjammer cruise is the people. On a giant liner you can make your own day. Read books, see movies, attend craft classes, listen to lectures, work out in the fitness center, swim in the pool, soak in the hot tub, watch the shows, gamble in the casino, dance in the discos or any of a dozen other activities. On the Mandalay, you can still read books, but forget the rest of the list. Here you mingle with the people that on your first day aboard walked up to you, introduced themselves and asked you where you’re from and whether you’d sailed on a windjammer before. It’s like joining a club and everyone wants you to have a good time because it’s their club and they’re planning to have a good adventure. I guess they think it’ll be easier for them to have a good time if everyone else does, too. I think they’re right!

One other thing you might want to know. The age of the guest list is considerably younger than the average cruise ship. I don’t think they carry any caskets on board just in case. Actually, it’s a pretty good mix, ranging from teenagers to seniors. The seniors here, however, are not waiting to be served. They’re mostly fit, active and ready for the next adventure. And no, this ship is not handicapped accessible. Given the small number of passengers (capacity about 70) it would be prohibitively expensive to refit the ship for accessibility. The cabins are small, the hallways are narrow and, usually, there is a stepover to get into one’s cabin.

If You Go:

Itineraries in British Virgin Islands, San Blas Islands (Panama), ABC Islands, St. Vincent & the Grenadines and more.

Website: www.windjammer.com

Website: www.quiltethnic.com/kuna.html

Phone: 1-800-327-2601

Ask for Specials. If you get on the mailing list, you will occasionally receive a postcard with the latest special.

*Robert Painter is a travel writer living in Albuquerque, New Mexico. He spends most of his time exploring the world, having recently returned from trips to Sedona, Arizona, Panama and the San Blas Islands, Russia and the Baltic Capitals, Africa and South America. Upcoming trips include Tahiti, Hawaii, China and Portugal. Robert is the staff travel writer for RedSky Publications and submits independent articles to numerous publications. He is the author of The Native American Indian Artist Directory and lectures on Native American Indian Art and Culture.

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