Germany, Austria, Netherlands

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VIKING WONDERS OF EUROPEAN RIVERS

by Doug Eads

We had departed Vienna late, and had to say goodbye to the city of Mozart and Strauss. I arose early the next day and went on deck for coffee ... It was serene. A blue heron swooped downstream, thinking it was diverting Viking Europe away from the nest. Ducks flew in and out like buzzing seaplanes, and the trees swayed in a gentle morning summer breeze.

There were flower-adorned village cottages, and camp grounds here and there. The river seemed groomed - immaculate. There are always lessons to be learned about neighborhood pride in rural European communities. It would be a wonderful day on the Danube!

"Doug, our previous guests are our best advertisements ... these are people who want to be close to nature and they enjoy beautiful sightseeing. My own favorite? - so far it is Russia, from St. Petersburg to Moscow ... I want you to try that cruise ... it is lovely!"

Torstein Hagen, Chairman Viking River Cruises

Today was Melk and later Linz, Austria. Daily programs filled with local information and itinerary schedules were brought to our cabin. There is just too much to take in to keep it mentally organized without these day-planners. Imagine on a 12 day itinerary - there would be 150 people wandering around deck ... "This is Wednesday and where do we go today - I don't know where we were Monday!"

I am still trying to figure out some of the Viking sayings that were on the daily planner ... perhaps you have to be of Viking and of Nordic stock to comprehend ... "From shriveled skin from scraggy things that hang among hides and move amid the guts, clear words often come." Explain this to me ... well it kept me busy trying! Several people from Sweden and Norway joined our cruise. My new friend Lars Nilsson laughingly said "Doug ... don't they teach you to read in Indiana? That means older people are wise!" - Well,- OK.

THE ADVENTURE:

Standing at the bow of the sleek ship, I could hear the prow splitting the quiet of the Danube while white swans glided along the banks ... it was pristine. Could this really be a river and not some lovely park - I wondered?

After a lovely buffet breakfast, with table service options, Melk, Austria came into view. I had no idea what awaited - but it proved magnificent. We moored, and departed for the Melk Abbey. Sound odd that a port stop for a church/abbey?

Melk had unimagined architectural beauty and history speaking through the walls of an ornate abbey that has continuously functioned for 900 years? "Bring on more religious architecture!" We agreed - for cathedrals are like art museums that also seem to speak to you! A terrace provided stunning river valley views from on high.

After the tour, a stroll through the quaint village ... this was our first outing since Vienna ... I knew that Viking River Cruises had named this trip correctly - 'A European Adventure'.

We cruised on - later was a brief tour of Linz at dusk, then we boarded for a relaxing evening of music by Otto - Viking Europe's versatile pianist. I think he knew every piece of music ever written!

Next the largest cathedral organ in the world sings for all to hear in Passau at St. Stephan's. Passau is on the river frontier convergence of Austria and Germany. The town is lovely, and historic to tour with the Viking local guide, but St. Stephan's is the golden opportunity of Passau. It was Sunday, so we would miss weekday organ recitals ... Not us! We went to mass!

We did not understand anything in the service, except "Mozart" ... and the church rang out with its lovely thunderous organ. It was inspiring. The beauty of the church was the best yet in out travels. The ceilings were adorned with detail masterpiece frescos. Viking had a supreme itinerary in store for the passengers ... there was an invigorated mood among the guests as we boarded to leave unforgettable Passau.

You see a great deal in 12 days, and by day 6 guests are saying, including us, - "What was? Where was that place ... you know, with the largest pipe organ?" So keep those daily planners and take a few notes for photo recognition.

I want readers to visualize what Viking River Cruises does for its efficient cruises. Daily there is cruising, and the optional included bus or walking tours. Some bus tours are more extensive, thus an included lunch is provided. While guests are taking the bus tours, and most do, the ship may move ahead en-route to the next stop. The tour director keeps in touch with the ship via phone for schedule updates. It works very well.

MEMORIES:

Nuremberg certainly brings back memories for veterans and historians of the WWII war crimes trials. Nuremburg also has the elaborate parade grounds and stadium that Adolph Hitler and the Nazi Party built for their public relations campaigns. It was interesting to stand in the area where so much sinister fanaticism took place. Seeing where Hitler gave those thunderous rhetorical speeches of both German pride and nationalism, mixed with hatred, bigotry and a thirst for conquest.

Since Nuremberg was the showplace for the Nazis, the world community decided to have the trials there. After a tour to the Court, and the Nazi Party parade grounds, next came a more happy and wonderful tour -the ancient walled city of Nuremberg. This was another well planned Viking outing!

There would be stops like lovely Bamberg and Wurzburg where the guests were invited for an all day excursion to medieval walled city of Rothenburg. This excursion included a pleasant traditional German restaurant, and time to explore the ancient city. Rothenburg was lovely from every photographic angle. Throughout German Bavaria it is quite common to see the wood exposed architecture known as half-timbered design ... German icons!

When we approach the Rhine river the more quaint gives way to more modern financial centers of Germany - There was a stop for shopping in Frankfurt, and we glided past the huge cathedral of Cologne. One last chance for the German quaint narrow-street ambience came with our stop at Ruedeshiem. Vineyards sloped abruptly into the edge of town, and live typical music came from open cafes.

We had come to love smaller German towns and would not feel intimidated driving in Germany. One of the bus tours went on the autobahn and nothing scary happened ... though you could tell the fast lane was indeed fast. We agreed that Germany was now one of our favorite countries and we especially loved Bavaria.

The Rhine offered the most concentrated amount of pristine castles we would see ... the afternoon was spent on deck with a guide booklet and announcements by the tour director. There was splendid photographic opportunities.

I did not know what to expect upon entering Holland. I guessed a Hans Christian Anderson world of quaint ice-skaters and windmills. Amsterdam's suburbs are highly mechanized, business-industrial, but scattered about randomly are some of the 600 year old windmills, still kept in good order.

Amsterdam was the end of our Viking River Cruise experience. We could have extended our stay there and taken in the Anne Frank house and the Van Gogh museum, which we are sorry we did not have time for.

Holland was many things I had expected, and many things unexpected. Most wonderful were the fields upon fields of ... that's right ... flowers of every color and description!

We toured the world famous Rijksmuseum, the largest museum of art and history in the Netherlands. Thousands of exhibits including some Van Gogh, and multiple Rembrandts give this museum a star role in Amsterdam tourism. Two symbols of the museum are 'Night Watch' by Rembrandt, and 'Self-Portrait' by Van Gogh - a must visit museum for art and history enthusiasts.

There was also time for a ride on the canals of Amsterdam ... and if you thought only Venice, Italy had canals ... Amsterdam is a grid-work of waterways. Only bicycles seem to out number boats and cars. The Netherlands vigorously encourages car-pooling and smaller vehicles and now parking lots have thousands of bicycles. A program the Netherlands initiated has lend-a-bike stands everywhere. It works!

Our Dutch treat finalized ... we were leaving the Viking Europe and it seemed a quick 12 days of well orchestrated scenery, sightseeing and exploration of Europe up-close and personal. See your community travel agent for help regarding European river cruising with Viking River Cruises.

With a sentimental nostalgic pang we had to say goodbye to Viking Europe's staff ... this had been one of our most favorite journeys. River cruising with Viking River Cruises had been much more than I imagined or expected.

Final: Cabins were comfortable and the food was again, superb. In another issue I will update readers on the great adventure East on the Danube on Viking Europe. We made her maiden voyage in 2003 to the Black Sea through former Soviet dominated areas. Prior to 2003 leisure river travel was not possible due to bridges being out ... another Viking tale I am anxious to explore with readers!

Those subtle breezy days upon the Danube, Main, and the Rhine were ... well, supremely sublime!

Pack and Go Help

Viking River Cruises

www.vikingrivercruises.com

1-877-668-4546

information or brochures

Vienna Tourism

www.austria-tourism.at

* Links to all attractions

Germany Tourism

www.germany-tourism.de

Amsterdam Tourism