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St. Croix Hospitality at The Buccaneer
By Fyllis Hockman
History, Horticulture and Hospitality Reside at The Buccaneer . The Manor House, part of which is still in use today, was built in 1653 by settlers from Denmark. The sugar mill, constructed in 1733, now serves as a meeting room. Former slave quarters dating back 250 years provide lodging.
It’s not often a visit to a destination hotel includes a history tour
spanning several centuries. However, history permeates the grounds of The Buccaneer Resort on St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands – which was originally opened by a cattle rancher, Douglas Armstrong, in 1948. As the longest running property in the Caribbean, it is also the only one run by the same family – lots of family history. Set on 340 sprawling acres, with dramatic views of the sea or the mountains around every turn, the resort could be full and you would not feel crowded. Separate groupings of rooms and buildings span the layout; yet, somehow, the entire complex seems easily accessible. Although all activities are within walking distance, climbing some of the hills might be difficult for a non-walker. Fortunately, there are shuttles to transport guests from one activity to the next.
The activities are endless: yoga classes to basketball; kayaking and
snorkeling to kids’ camp and fitness center – those are the free ones.
For a fee, there are spa treatments, golf, tennis and island excursions. Those into jet skis will have to go elsewhere; most guests are delighted there’s nothing motorized to break the serenity. Although the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Croix is small enough to be manageable in a single days drive. The island provides a comfortable, laid-back middle ground between the frenzy of shopping,
commercialism and noisy nightlife on St. Thomas, and the tomb-quiet
setting of St. John, with much to see and appreciate within a short-driving
distance. The Buccaneer reflects that St. Croix quality.
According to guest J.R. Rowland, from Boston: “The Buccaneer has the most premiere setting on the island and everything is so conveniently located. I
come here year after year and the staff caters to the guests, whether it’s one
or a dozen. The Armstrongs insist upon it.”
The current Armstrongs, Elizabeth and Robert, are Douglas’ grandchildren and 8th-generation Cruzans, and it is their emphasis on service that really
distinguishes the resort. I didn’t encounter a single employee -– bell boy, housekeeper, shuttle driver, waitperson -– who didn’t greet me with a warm smile and a sincere desire to help. That doesn’t happen by accident. Hiring is very stringent, and every member of the staff undergoes a training process that took two years to develop, and is reinforced daily. “The staff here is incomparable,” noted five-time guest Greg Kacz from New York City. “When my two-year-old son was sick, they noticed and went out of their way to bring a toy or juice or just come by to cheer him up.”
The only breakdown in service comes at a time most people are particularly fussy: when they’re eating. While the food is well prepared and presented, you could practically play a round of golf between courses. Suffice it to say,
don’t stop for a meal if you’re on the way to catch a plane.
Elizabeth started working at the hotel at age 8 picking up litter.
Fascinated by all the lights and sounds, she graduated a year later to switchboard operator -– and continued on to learn every aspect of the hotel business, as did her behind-the-scenes brother. Some of the staff she knew as a child are still working at the resort. She claims that, “Fifty percent of the staff has been here over 30 years –- they feel like it’s their Buccaneer.” Working here since the early ‘60’s, Westin Huggins is a fixture as bartender at Mermaid Beach, one of three hotel beaches. When I asked him why this one hotel for so long, he replied: “If I’m going to work in tourism, I might as well be at the best.”
Lying in the sun at Mermaid Beach at five in the evening, with a Huggins
cocktail in hand, looking up at palm fronds gently swaying overhead, brought a very self-satisfied smile to my face. It was 20 degrees back home. I closed my eyes and listened to the soulful cry of a “lonesome dove”
strutting along the sand. Later, I watched the sunset from the balcony of my room, the lush grounds overlooking the Caribbean, with the lights of Christiansted twinkling as a backdrop. At this point, I couldn’t be less interested in the history.
The Buccaneer is not the most opulent resort, and I mean that in a good way.
It’s homey and welcoming and comfortable. Even the most luxurious suites are not lavish. What they are is spacious: I could get more exercise walking from the bedroom to the closet than I do from my treadmill at home. The bathroom is as large as some standard hotel rooms.
But for exercise, I preferred an evening jog along the nature trail. I increased my heartbeat while decreasing my stress level, running between, around
and among water lily ponds (one with resident egret often in attendance),
mangroves, flowered pathways, ageless Mahogany trees, all often within sight of the sea. Hard to go back to the treadmill. One word of caution: the trail intersects the golf course so look out for both golfers and golf balls.
One of the highlights of a Buccaneer stay is the weekly History and Nature
Tour conducted by Elizabeth Armstrong. In addition to delving more deeply into the resort’s 300-year past, she tells stories about the trees, bushes and flowers, most of which bloom year-round, that grace the expansive grounds. The trees almost sound like a list of ingredients: Cashew, Jasmine, Calabash, Almond, Mahogany, and a Tamarind over 300 years old. Even the trees are part of
the history.
Something I found of particular interest was that all of the water is recycled: bath and waste water is used for irrigation, rainwater for drinking and desalinated sea water for general washing. I like that in a resort.
For more information, call 800/255-3881, or visit www.thebuccaneer.com
If You Go
Accommodations -- standard to luxury rooms, family cottages to expansive
suites. Prices based on type of lodging, with ocean or mountain views, and time of year range from $215 per night to $700, including full breakfast buffet.
Dining -– Casual poolside fare is available at The Grotto. The covered
open-air Terrace Restaurant combines beautiful views with classical and Caribbean specialties (average entrée: $25). The Mermaid is located beachside and offers full lunch and dinner menus (Entrees: $16-$26).
Real Travel Adventures International Magazine
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