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Paradise Point at Mission Bay, San Diego
Flag of Panama
Discovering the San Blas Islands
Windjammer's Newest Destination Reveals an Unspoiled World
by Larry Taylor, photos by Gail Taylor
The San Blas Islands, off the coast of Panama, are one of the last,pristine undeveloped areas of the world. These islands with swaying
coconut palms, soft sand beaches and colorful coral reefs, surrounded by the turquoise Caribbean, are the epitome of a tropical paradise. What a place for a wedding trip or second honeymoon! The only inhabitants are Kuna Indians.
The name San Blas was only vaguely familiar to my wife and me when we read that Windjammer Barefoot Cruises was going to add this destination the 2003 itinerary. Reading the brochure's promise of learning about an exotic culture, coupled with visiting uninhabited islands, with ample beach and snorkeling time, we decided to sign up for a week-long September cruise on the SV Mandalay. Taca Airlines offers direct flights to Panama from our home base, Los Angeles, leaving around 1 a.m. Not feeling up to a "red-eye," however, we opted for a one-stop Delta flight that left at a more civilized time Saturday morning. After our evening arrival in Panama City, we were transferred to Country Inn at the end of the Panama Canal and adjacent
to the oft-photographed Friendship Bridge where we had a great view of ships entering the Pacific Ocean after passing through the canal's locks.
Sunday morning before boarding ship, passengers were taken on a city tour, highlighted by a stop at Panama's "old city," built by 15th Century Spanish conquerors. We walked down the original cobble-stone road, viewing the remnants of the ancient fort and cathedral.
Later we visited the U.S. government enclave which housed the administration and workers in charge of the construction of the canal which took from 1904 to 1914. Nearby are the anama Canal Museum and Plaza Francia, the site of a monument dedicated to the workers who died building the canal.
In the afternoon, on our way to Portabello on the Caribbean where the Mandalay was anchored, our group stopped at the Miraflores Lock, last
stop for ships on their day-long canal journey from the Atlantic to the Pacific. After vessels came into the lock, we soon saw them disappear as they were lowered to the level of the Pacific. Finally, by late afternoon we were onboard, ready to get under sail that night.
The Windjammer fleet, established in 1947 by Navy vet Mike Burke, consists of six tall-masted sailing ships, many of which were built before WWII. This period was the era of graceful yachts, owned by the rich and famous. The Mandalay was built in 1923 by financier E. F. Hutton. In 1953, she became a floating laboratory for Columbia University sailing over a million-and-a-quarter miles worldwide. In1982, the ship became part of Windjammer's fleet.
With 36 cabins, the Mandalay can accommodate 72 passengers, served by a crew of 30. Other Windjammer ships are similar in size with the largest, SV Legacy, holding 128 guests. These spiffy vessels were built by expert craftsmen using exotic hand-carved woods. It's a sensuous experience to feel weathered teakwood under your feet. These ships may be from another era but they incorporate the latest navigation and communications systems.
Because Windjammer ships draw less water than large cruise ships, it's easy for them to get close to the smallest islands and out-of-the-way
ports. This aspect made the Mandalay perfect for visiting the islands. We could anchor close to shore, minutes away by tender to the beach.
Around 10 p.m. Sunday night we raised sails and were underway. Helping out is not mandatory but many chose to "heave away" with the crew, becoming a more integral part of the experience. Meanwhile, the strainsof "Amazing Grace" swelled from speakers on deck. No matter how many times we witness this ritual, it sends shivers up our spines.
As expected with a yacht this size, cabins are efficiently compact. Standard cabins have bunk beds, a bathroom/shower and enough storage
space for your week's-worth of shorts and tee shirts. Of course, no hard shoes are permitted on board. The cruise atmosphere could not be
laid back.
When we awoke our first morning, we peeked through the window of our.deck cabin and saw our first destination, Achu Tupi or Dog Island. With.sheltering reef and palm-fringed beach, this looked as close to paradise as we could get.
Following breakfast each day, Captain's Story Time takes place on the top deck. Here Capt. Matt enthusiastically informs passengers of the day's activities and about the islands we would visit. With clear weather and balmy breezes beckoning, we couldn't wait to get ashore.San Blas is an archipelago consisting of over 365 islands, many postage-stamp size, with the biggest island we saw seemingly not more
than a couple miles around. Most are uninhabited; some home to one or two families. The largest on our itinerary was Nalunega, consisting of a small village with a rustic hotel. Here we gathered in a large meeting hall and met local chiefs swinging in their hammock-thrones.
During the week, we had on board a Kuna Indian translator, Gilberto Alamencia, who filled us in on local history and culture. He said that
the Indians retreated to the islands from the mainland in the early 1600s at the time of the Spanish invasion of Panama. There are now some 53,000 Kunas living in the islands and on a strip of land on the Panamanian coast. The Kuna area has been designated a semi-autonomous territory, not unlike a U.S. Indian reservation.
On the islands, the people live much as their ancestors did in palm-thatched huts with no electricity. Water is brought in from the coast a few miles away, supplemented by catching rain water. Seafood and coconuts are the staples of their diet. Proving that civilization hasn'ttotally passed the islanders by, however, on one very small island, we saw a group of Kuna sitting in front of a hut listening to a transistor
radio broadcast of a mainland soccer game.
Kuna women are known for their colorful costumes which consist of a patterned blue cotton wrapped skirt, red and yellow head scarf, arm and leg beads and an intricately sewn mola- panel blouse. The molas are
hand-woven in a reverse applique' technique using several layers of differently colored cotton. (Four-layered designs are the best). They are usually decorated in fine embroidery depicting such things as animals, mythic characters and folk symbols. Molas developed at the time Kuna women had access to store-bought goods. Men have also become mola
artisans.
These mola panels, most about a foot square, have become sought after and collected examples of folk art, and the selling of them hascontributed much to the Kuna economy. They average around $10 each, but we saw some that sold for $80. Everyday women set up displays of them on the beach. "Mola malls" passengers called them. Often we saw the same purveyors as they followed us island to island.
Each day we had prime beach time-sunbathing, snorkeling, kayaking or
simply reading a book in the shade of a coconut palm. Often tables were
set up for a lunch-time barbecue or buffet.
As expected, snorkeling was great. We saw some of the loveliest coral gardens imaginable in all colors-reds, greens, yellows, blues. Leafy
coral trees swayed in the current; large mounds of brain coral loomed before us, and fire coral beckoned, but we dared not touch. All this
abundant growth attracted swarms of tropical fish in a rainbow of shades. A highlight one day was the sight of a six-foot nurse shark
napping under a reef ledge.
Afternoons at 5 rum swizzles and appetizers were served on top deck followed by two seatings for dinner, 6:30 and 8. With a closet-sized kitchen, it was amazing what items head chef "Boston" and his three-man crew were able to create. Fresh fish prepared in a variety of ways was often one of the two entree selections-paired with chicken, pork or beef
dishes. Two of our favorite sides were prepared with fresh grated ginger-a very light cole slaw and an equally interesting carrot salad.
Each day Kuna fishermen would meet us ashore or come along side ship, their dugout canoes filled with lobsters and crabs. Although we had no complaints about food on board, some of us couldn't resist the temptation of fresh shellfish. One day I bought a large king crab for $4 which the cooks obligingly steamed. Without a doubt it was the most
delicious crab I've ever eaten, and there was so much I couldn't finish it.
There were no entertainers onboard such as on big cruise lines, but we never lacked for diversion. One night a costume party was held.
Passenger and crew were encouraged to dress in something starting with
"p." This provided a surfeit of pirates, pimps and cross-dressed prostitutes, good for lots of laughs. Another night crab races were
scheduled. The crew keeps a menagerie of hermit crabs which were put in the middle of a circle. We bet on which would reach the edge of the ring first.
Capt. Matt Thomas has been with Windjammer for 20 years, having worked his way up from a young deck hand. Each sailing he sees a lot of
familiar faces because of the 65% return rate for passengers. We talked to many people who had been with Windjammer multiple times. For one couple this was their 11th. What they love is the "no dress up," unpretentious atmosphere on board, and the fact that there is something
new happening each day.
The Mandalay was in San Blas this summer until the end of September before it sailed east for winter and spring cruises out of Grenada.
According to Thomas, this initial season has been a success. He says,"The word from the front office is that we'll be back in Panama late
next spring." I certainly hope so. This was one of our most rewarding cruise experiences. We learned a lot and had loads of fun.
Windjammer's six ships sail on one or two-week cruises year round throughout the Caribbean. For information, call (800) 327-2601 or check the website www.windjammer.com. Real Travel Adventures Web Magazine
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