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The Heart of the Mayan World
©2006 Ron Kapon
I was looking for a place to visit for five days that would allow me to write several stories. It was early summer so sun and warmth were not important and I did not want to travel through many time zones nor fly for more than five hours. I thought about Costa Rica, Nassau, Dominican Republic, and Aruba among others but eventually chose Guatemala. Its reputation for making great rums, especially Zacapa and Botran, and their Mayan heritage both would make interesting articles. Mexico is to the northwest; Belize to the northeast, Honduras and the Atlantic Ocean on the east; El Salvador and the Pacific Ocean to the south. In Guatemala there are 21 Mayan ethnic groups with 21 different languages of Mayan origin. I was also there during the rainy season (May-September) and the average temperature was around 65-70 degrees. My only regret- because of time constraints- was not getting to Tikal, one of the most important cities in the Maya Classic period (from AD 250 to AD 947). Settled in 700 BC it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It also served as the victorious rebel base in the first Star Wars movie. Over 3,000 structures have been unearthed including temples, palaces, and altars.
From New York, I arrived in Guatemala City in just over 4 ½ hours with the airport 10 minutes from my hotel. Chaotic, congested and polluted, it is the largest city in Central America with over three million people- about a quarter of Guatemala’s population. The capital was moved here in 1776 (nice choice of years) after Antigua was destroyed by an earthquake. The city is surrounded on three sides by hills and active volcanoes, including Pacaya, which is in constant eruption. Visit the Ixchel Museum for examples of hand woven textiles and costumes from the indigenous people. The historic center contains the obligatory central plaza with the National Palace, Metropolitan Cathedral and nearby Central Market and Natural History Museum. My guide kept talking about the spectacle of Holy Week with its processions, candlelight vigils and sawdust floral carpets during that most important week in this predominately Catholic country. I stayed in Zone 10 known as Zona Viva, the capitol’s hub of business. There you can find shopping and entertainment which is a world apart with luxury hotels, restaurants and clubs. If I was worried about my safety before I came I never had a single problem walking the streets. These are some of the friendliest people I have ever met. Of course, every bank, jewelry store, money exchange and hotel had armed guards both representing the police and private security. In about an hour I was in Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage site, considered the best preserved colonial city in Spanish America. It served as the county’s capitol for more than two centuries. The streets are still cobblestone and I had a chance to visit both a coffee plantation and jade factory (I bought several necklaces from street vendors at 1/3 the price). The Spanish Colonial style is evident in its 17th and 18th century houses, churches, squares, parks and ruins all within walking distance from my hotel. I could view the three volcanoes including the active Fuego. There are 40 language schools located within the town, making it the main destination in Central America for travelers wishing to learn Spanish.
After an early breakfast we drove the two hours to Chichicastenango (I just love the name of that town) where I spent several hours visiting the largest indigenous clothing and crafts market in Central America. The marketplace has operated continuously for over a thousand years (Thursday & Sunday). Santo Thomas Church was built in 1540 and I watched the Sunday services blending Mayan and Catholic rituals.
Another hour and we reached Panajachel, which is 5,100 feet above sea level and 15 degrees above the equator, making for a sunny cool climate. Guatemala’s highland area is a showcase for the Maya culture. It is here where the rites, the traditions, the teachings and the ways of life continue to express themselves. It is the gateway to explore the three indigenous villages around Lake Atitlan, famous for its women weavers. Aldrous Huxley described it as “the most beautiful lake in the world.” There are boat cruises available to take you around and across the lake. Guatemalan Gastronomy- Except for one meal where I was served old lettuce and tomatoes that caused a brief case of Montezuma’s Revenge, I had a great time eating only local foods. One of the staple foods for Guatemalans is corn. It was used even before the arrival of the Spaniards, and the Maya held that it was the substance from which humans were formed. Other common foods are beans, cheeses, corn tortillas, avocado and rice. Because the country sits between two oceans there is an abundance of seafood including Dorado, Snapper, Squid, Shrimp and Tuna. The south coast produces sugar cane and different types of citrus fruits like papayas, watermelons, mangoes, bananas and peaches. There is the omnipresent soup served very hot especially Tapado or seafood soup. I ordered it for every lunch and dinner. In the highlands the lower temperatures are ideal for growing wheat, sorghum, barley and especially their fabulous coffee. I was also introduced to Jocon ,which is chicken with a green sauce prepared from a base of fresh coriander. I skipped the offering of armadillo and iguana. The only gifts I brought home with me were bottles of 23 year old rum and several pounds of coffee.
In 2 ½ hours I was back in Guatemala City and ready for the second half of my visit drinking the greatest rums in the world. But that is for another article.
BEFORE YOU GO- www.visitguatemala.com – Guatemala Tourism Board- (800) 464-8281
www.quintareal.com.gt – Quinta Real Hotel
www.ichotelsgroup.com – Intercontinental Real Guatemala
www.hotelposadadedonrodrigo.com – Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo
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