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BRUGES-THE OTHER CANAL CITY
By Nancy S. Tardy
The cold rain of a May evening swirled around me as I tried to recall the route that I had memorized to lead me from the central area of Bruges to my hotel. It had been a long day of travel, but soon my weariness and anxiety gave way to excitement as I viewed the well-dressed shop windows along Wollestraat and spotted the lights of my hotel beaming a warm welcome across a canal to me. The Duc de Bourgogne is one of the many charming small hotels and inns located in the most popular tourist destination in Belgium. Its candlelit restaurant creates a relaxing and warm backdrop for an excellently prepared dinner, and breakfast can be enjoyed in the same dining room with views of the canal.
Bruges, or Brugge in Flemish, is a medieval town with roots in the 14th century, when 45,000 people lived there. It was a major trading port between England and Scandinavia to the north, and Italy and Spain to the south. The town was laid out along canals, and architectural examples of each period can be seen while strolling through the town center. After its river silted up and access to the sea was lost, it declined into oblivion with no special significance, which helped it escape the destruction of the World Wars.
Smart travelers will arrive in Bruges by public transportation or will park their cars at one of the many city parking areas and proceed on foot. Both rail and bus service is abundant and inexpensive. (For train information within Belgium go to www.b-rail.be). The town is anchored by two public squares, the Burg and Markt, and streets radiate outward bridging the many canals. At a walking pace, the traveler can better appreciate the variety of architectural displays, the serene view of swans gliding down the canals and the glimpse of church steeples.
While there are some sights not to be missed, such as a canal boat ride and a walking tour through the Burg and Markt (stop in the friendly tourist information center in the Burg), the Vismarkt (the busy fishmarket open Tuesday through Sunday), the Groeninge Museum for the art lovers, and one of the few Michelangelo statues found outside of Italy in the Church of Our Lady; do stroll through the neighborhoods surrounding the town center to see Bruges’ enduring charm. When your feet begin to tire, plan to stop at one of the many convenient sidewalk and canal-side cafes for a snack or drink.
Shopping in Bruges can consume as much time as you allow. The quality and quantity of merchandise is staggering-including some of the best chocolate in the world, wooden toys, Christmas items, books, and the ever-present lace and tapestries. If you have time, visit the Kantcentrum, the lace center, which sells supplies for lace-making as well as small handmade lace items by their guild members. Nearby is a lace museum with the walls covered by lace patterns of every variety and age. You’ll want to consider a side trip to Damme, a village about 5 miles away. Some rent bicycles for the ride through quiet, flat countryside, while others book a tour that drops them in the village for an hour of shopping and sightseeing with a leisurely return on a paddle steamer along the poplar-lined canal.View from paddle steamer on canal between Damme and Bruges.
Good restaurants of every type and price range are found within walking distance of the town center.
Consult local guide books or ask for recommendations.
For additional information check out www.brugge.be or www.belgique-tourisme.net, and consider a visit to the other canal city.
Duc de Bourgogne Hotel/Restaurant
Huidenvettersplein 12
Tel: (050) 33 20 38
www.ducdebourgogne.be
Rates $120-$175/night including breakfast
Nancy is a healthcare professional with a passion for traveling alone and writing about her experiences and the people she meets. She currently lives in Las Vegas, a city with instant name recognition from Laos to Equador.
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