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© 2004 Bonita Productions Inc.
A Visit To Old Cape Cod
© 2003 By Bonnie Neely, Photos By Bill Neely
Locted at the elbows of the Cape, Orleans is your introduction to the “old Cape,” the laid back, unpretentious atmosophere where harried business professionals from four major NE seaboard cities find quiet rest and the peaceful atmoshphere of nature year round. This town, which is the gateway to the Nationoal Seashore Preserve set aside by President J.F. Kennedy, is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean to the East and the Bay to the West, so you can meditate or photograph both sunrise or sunset over the water. You can walk out the backdoor of your mid-priced motel, now completely renovated with all new interiors, The Governor Prence, and be on the wonderful asphalt hiking, biking, skating trail and go for over thirty miles through bird sanctuary, small towns, and beaches.The Cape is reflective of old money unconscious of itself. And you'l find many understated niceties. For example, I was pleasantly amazed to find in the Chatham Mobil Service station restroom fresh cut flowers and William Sonoma Hand lotion. Perhaps the extras are the reason he has been in business since 1949! They have a full service garage; if you need it, call 508-945-0004.
If you want to come to the Cape at a great time with little traffic and few tourists, plan your trip for the week after the Fourth of July or the week before Memorial or Labor Days. And locals tell us September and October are some of the most wondrous times.
On the Cape you need a car, although traffic everywhere is really a problem, and entering main thoroughfares from side roads can be quite treacherous. But if you come with the spirit of relaxation and just refuse to let the slow traffic spoil your attitude, you can ease into the waiting pace and enjoy island life. So, when you first encounter the snake of endless, about 30 mile an hour traffic except on Highway 6, take a deep breath and smile… after all, you came for the purpose of enjoying what you see and escaping the frantic pace of your daily schedule. The island is much larger than you imagine, 75miles long and up to 40 miles wide. Driving from town to town you'll want to stop many places to photograph the beautiful weathered gray-shingled homes and the white-painted, clapboard two-stories, typical of the architecture. Many of these lovely places are summer homes of city-dwellers.
Busses from most large cities stop at Hyanis, and, of course, those with boats can arrive by water and dock at almost any place around the island and walk, or bike into the towns. Normally the weather is pleasant, sunny, and brisk from April through October, but we arrived in mid-May and found bone chilling winds, most unusual for this time of year. Be prepared, as ocean breezes from the North are always present. We found it to be early spring with bulbs and unleafed trees blooming in profusion, a most beautiful time of year. Fall color is another gorgeous time for photographs. But can there be any non-beautiful time in such a natural jewel as this boomerang shaped island? Perhaps that's why for centuries people keep coming back!
Canoe and Kyak rentals are in many p laces and are a favorite sport along the many protected waters in and around the island. You can take lessons too.
Orleans, in the Center of the Cape's "Elbow"
The Lobster Claw, which just was awarded “The Best Family Restaurant on Cape Cod” for the ninth year in a row, is the success story of Don and Marylou, the owners. For thirty-four years they have spent from April to October keeping about 800 people a day happily satisfied with succulent morsels of the sea.
Don grew up on the cape, the son of a Fish Market owner, so from his earliest memories he knew how to look for the qualities of the best catch. Having fish and seafood his main diet for all of his 60 plus years makes him a connoisseur par excellence. And when we asked him his favorite he told us he chooses the restaurants' fried halibut about 50 percent of the time. His other favorite is the speciality: Lobster newberg. The rich cheese and sherry sauce is his wife's own recipe.“Every day my wife starts the same way. She cleans every table and washes all the windows herself. Then she makes her delicious Lobster Newberg and her famous Indian pudding.” When we asked if he knows how lucky he is to have such a life partner he quipped, “I just tell her how lucky she is to have a job at 60!” The pair, obviously devoted to each other and to their business, have successfully worked side by side for 34 years in this favorite institution in the town of Orleans at the Cape.
Don also credits his wife with the innovative décor of the upstairs bar, which is in the cranberry storage room used by a cranberry farm here over a century ago. A huge bright yellow boat is the bar, and a giant lobster stands host over the iced beer in the bow. Oars and nets form much of the décor, and canvas captain's chairs are the decorative seating.
The popular triple dining area is filled to its 200 capacity from 4 - 5:30 PM daily because of the Early Bird Special, which included delicious clam chowder, beverage, and Marylou's famous Indian pudding or ice cream with your dinner. In peak tourist season from Memorial to Labor Days come prepared to wait in line or come about 8 p.m. No reservations are taken.
But the most fun place is the gift shop where you'll find over 250 lobster themed souvenirs from which to make your selections!
Call 508-255-1800.
Governor Prence Motel in Orleans is a good family place to stay on the Cape. With AAA rating, it is located in the middle of the island, at the quaint “Old Cape” area where nature enthusiasts will be enthralled with the many trails through woodlands overlooking grassy marshes. 1-800-342-4300 or click here.Bird watchers with their binoculars and field guides will delight in this natural and protected aviary. The best way to enjoy this is on the Cape Cod Rail Trail with a bicycle you can rent from Orleans Cycle at 26 Main St. (508-255-9115). They have the latest equipment to make cycling so much fun and trouble free.
To walk, skate, or bike the 38 miles of asphalt path on the former railroad bed is an exercisers' paradise because the beach and woodland scenery is every changing, ever fascinating with beautiful flowers and trees and all sorts of wildlife. A large, brown bunny greeted us as we stood photographing cardinals, a hawk, robin, and red-winged black-birds among the salt grasses, awaiting a glorious sunset enhanced by a feathered chorus. Our first visit to this beautiful place made us know why people come back again and again to escape the frantic pace of nearby city life in Boston, Providence, Hartford, and New York City.In Orleans and at other places around the Cape you'll find the famous Christmas Tree Shops, whose name is quite deceptive. These shops, a favorite among locals, have every conceivable item from foods to furniture for greatly discounted prices.
In Orleans don't miss eating at Joe's Bar and Grill, owned and managed by Kathi and Joe Lewis, at the historic Barley Neck Inn in the very heart of the Old Cape. We enjoyed here one of the most elegant meals we have ever eaten, yet in a laid-back casual setting with denim table cloths and bandanna napkins. We ate in the Piano Bar beside a great stone fireplace, lighted with huge candles. On the mantle was a large fisherman's basket, quite appropriately filled with cattails. Keyboardist Jim Turner is a marvelous musician who was blind from birth but was gifted with obvious musical talent. He was taught at the school for the blind which he attended, and he can play beautifully almost any melody you can request. He has performed here for nearly a decade on week-ends.
French Chef Franc prepares the most unusual and fabulous food you have never imagined. Using the French style of exquisite culinary artistry and French favorites as his starting point, he has given the dishes a most delightful but indefinable surprise taste by using Asian seasonings and spices. He specializes in New England fare with French/Asian flare! Absolutely fabulous!!! Call for directions and reservations 800-281-7505, or 508-255-0212, or click hereAt low tide you can walk along the many coves to rake or dig for clams yourself. At high tide you'll see the clam trees sticking out of the water. These are actual trees attached to metal channel markers, which are visible only at low tide. Clams have often attached their colonies to these trees, hence the name. If you want to see the fishing boats unload go to the fish market of whatever town you're in at high tide and see the catch of the day unloaded.You can fish from many places along riverbank, bay, or ocean with a license.
Truro
Pilgrims found corn on this hill and Nausett Indians. They stole the Indian corn to survive and also found Pilgrim Spring near here. Fearing ponds would dry up, they moved on because of unfriendly Indians, lack of water and food. One of best beaches in Massachusetts is here. There is a long wait for little rent cottages all in a row in front of the board walk to the beach. Unfortunately million dollar + homes have been built atop the huge sand dune which helps protect his horseshoe shaped bay within a few miles of Provincetown on the tip of the island's hook.
Truro Moto Inn, Whitman House Restaurant nearby on highway 6A. Pilgrim Spring Motel and Cape View Motel both have great views. Truro Vineyard & Winery Inn is a great place to stay. The bay is perfect for swimming, sand play for kids. It always has water, and is not marshy in low tide, as some bays are. Beautiful sandy beaches of the Bay are calmer and warmer than Atlantic side, just a short distance away.
Provincetown, the most North-Easterly point of Cape Cod is where Pilgrims on the Mayflower first in the New World. William Bradford wrote Pilgrim Constitution which all the Pilgrim Fathers signed Nov 11, 1620 on-board ship here stating loyalty to King James of England, France, Scotland, and Ireland, as they agreed to settle this part of what they called Northern Virginia.
Provincetown is one of the most invitingly interesting little towns of the Cape. The tall stone tower, which you can climb for a great view all around, commemorates the little known Pilgrim Landing. They spent several weeks here trying to decide where to build their colony, thinking it was Northern Virginia, and finding many unfriendly Indians, bitter cold, and lack of food and water. William Bradford and his men drew up their Articles of Constitution on board the Mayflower in harbor here, but had to swipe corn from the natives at a place now known as “Corn Hill” in order to survive. After several weeks they decided to move on, and thus Plymouth got all the history book fame. Pilgrim's Tower here signifies this landing.Provincetown's eighteenth century settlers were the Portuguese fisermen, who found these waters teeming with prize catches. Whaling ships stayed in the wonderful protected Bay Harbor so that whales could be easily harpooned in the cold Atlantic waters when they came North to feed in summers. The historic fishing village today has become an artists' and gay mecca and is thriving with many tourist attractions. Along the very narrow Commercial Street on the Bay side, you `ll find block after block of fascinating artsy shops, galleries, and eateries. Don't try to find parking or take any large vehicles down this street, but walking it for blocks is fun anytime of day or night.
In the older town center near the church and Pilgrim monument you'll find another array of interesting specialty shops, small restaurants and ice creameries. At this island tip, you are less than a mile between Bay and Atlantic, making it a uniquely beautiful location, with water and golden sandy beaches all around. Almost any place you stay is within easy walk of the beach, and motels, cottages, apartments, guest houses, and B&B's are actually on the beach. From Memorial Day to Labor Day you must have advance reservations because this is a very popular place.
One of the highlights of P-Town, as it is called by locals, is the whale watching. These are the summer feeding and breeding waters for many species of whales, including, grays, blues, finbacks, minkes, rights,and humpbacks. Often you'll sight them from the beach. Since the 1970's whales have been protected in at Stllwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary in this Gulf of Maine. Today you can take exciting whale watching trips aboard several different boats.
We chose the Dolphin Fleet (1-800-826-9300 or click here ) . This fleet serves not only to take tourists out but also since 1975 has also taken Marine Biologists and Scientists and Naturalists out to study the whales and gather scientific data on board with tourists. Consequently, it is not unusual in summer to have these friendly whales right beside your boat.Although weather does not affect the whales, rough seas in bad weather make it difficult to spot them as they blow and surface. But you are almost guaranteed to see some on your trip, and the Naturalists aboard give fascinating lectures and answer any questions. You can purchase your tickets beside the Chamber of Commerce right at the Car Park of the Harbor.
You'll help the Center for Coastal Studies save the whales if you shop there for any coat or warm clothing you might need, as all the trips are windy and chilly. The weather here averages 15 degrees cooler than the mainland and is always windy. Be sure to join, or make a donation as you purchase your ticket. This volunteer organization has saved 65 whales from dying when accidentally caught in the lines or nets of the fishing industry. Historically these lines and nets were made of natural fibers and were not as harmful to the whales. But since the '70's they have ben made of polyethylene, and most whales have scars from having been snared accidentally, and many died before this organization was formed to save them and make the populace aware. (508-487-3622 or
E-mail ccs@coastalstudies.org.
The whale watching trip is very relaxing, and we got really good hamburgers aboard for just $3.00. Food and drinks are nominal and the restroom facilities are very clean. You'll find binoculars almost more useful than your camera, although you'll want both and film is available aboard. However, most sightings are brief and this photography requires professionals. You can buy a video of your entire trip, (Salt & Friends, 717-763-9507 or E-mail: seewhales@aol.com or click here ). So we advise leaving your good camera to save it from sudden salt water splashes, and just take a disposable camera for possible longer sightings. The heated cabin below deck is comfortable in any weather, and you have plenty of seating in open air above deck, but you'll definitely be at the rail when the announcer says, “Whale's up!”
When you have completed your whaling trip you'll want to visit the Center for Coastal Studies Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary Exhibit, just across from the Pilgrim Monument. The fascinating exhibit is in a little garage, and it is worth waiting your turn to go inside. This little building contains a wealth of knowledge in the fun, interactive videos of the Marine Biologist Studies. And you'll be able to learn all about whales and the efforts of this organization to save them. Open 11-6 Thurs. - Sun. in spring and fall, and seven days from 10 a.m. - 7p.m. in summer .(1-781-545-8026 , or click here .)
We learned that the whales have under-tail markings as unique as our fingerprints; therefore, when one dives and reveals his markings the scientists know exactly which one has visited the water near the boat. Whales breathe through lungs, just as we do, but they use 90% of the oxygen they take in, whereas we use only about 10%. That means they can dive straight down for a mile and stay underwater for 20 minutes up to nearly an hour. Some whales have baleens instead of teeth, and these, which you will see, strain the nutrients from the 90,000 gallons of water a large whale can take into his mouth in one gulp. Many more are the fascinating facts you'll learn from this terrific excursion or from the visit to the Exhibit.
Another little museum you'll not want to miss when you are on the wharf is the Pirate Museum. We had expected just a hokey fictional place and were delighted at what we found. It is a very informative and fascinating display of the relics found by `s expedition to recover The Whydah shipwreck just offshore of the nearby beach at the National Seashore. The ship was located in the 1980's and is the only pirate ship to be positively identified by the ship bell, which you'll see inscribed with its name. This had been a slave ship and a trader, which had millions of dollars worth of treasures on board when the Pirates took it. They had found enough bounty to retire and the head pirate was returning to the love of his life when the ship ran aground and only one pirate survived. Because The Whydah was so deeply covered with sand and encrusted or “concretized” through age, it has been enormously difficult and expensive to recover and is an on-going effort.
The historian serves as the museum director and has interesting tales to tell. Children and adults will be fascinated by this little museum, and the pirate souvenir trinkets to purchase abound.
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