Argentina :FREE Travel Magazine E-zine: Dream or Plan your week-end trips or international travel adventures here

International Magazine

Flag of Argentina

La Trochita: The Little Engine That Couldn’t

In August 2004, my wife and I left our comfortable lives to embark on a life journey through South America. Our son Camlin has become quite a traveler, gamely following us through mountains and river valleys, foreign cities and southernmost points.

As with most six-year-old boys, Camlin has an endless fascination with trains. Since setting foot on Argentine soil and learning about La Trochita, the narrow-gauge railway that traverses the wind-swept plains of Patagonia, his quest for a ride has been relentless. As we stood in line waiting to purchase our tickets, he clutched his toy train and quivered with delight that his day had finally come.

La Trochita, Argentina’s only fully-functioning steam engine train, is also one of the few remaining narrow-gauge steam train lines in the world. La Trochita is to narrow-gauge trains what Seabiscut was to thoroughbred horseracing: the long-shot that never quit.

The state-run rail project was a high-risk proposal when it began nearly a century ago. The Argentine government proposed to build a series of railways that would connect the inaccessible central region of Patagonia to Atlantic ports. The expensive plan languished due to the financial constraints of WWI but in the early 1920’s work began on the narrow-gauge-section.

The La Trochita experience has always been a waiting game. From the original go-forward decision, the .75-meter (2.5 feet) gauge tracks took nearly 40 years to reach the town of El Maitén in the province of Chubut. The final tracks did not reach the terminal station of Esquel until 1945. The entire 402-kilometer (250 mile) narrow-gauge route from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Esquel began service the same year.

Today the majority of La Trochita’s departures serve day-trippers who long to ride the nostalgic 25 mile, three-hour roundtrip from Esquel to Nahuel Pan. For those with time and a superhuman tolerance for uncomfortable wooden seats, the train travels the six and one-half hour route from Esquel to El Maitén during the annual train festival in February.

Time moves slowly in Esquel, preparing us for the journey back to another century. After a half-hour delay, we inched out of the station. Moving slowly through the soft morning light, I gazed out my window and realized that the draw of La Trochita is truly universal. The train was packed with people of all ages and nationalities gathered to experience the man-made marvel traveling through an unforgiving landscape. Camlin’s eyes sparkled as he realized his dream of this ride. Even the local children ran to catch a glimpse of the engine pulling its cramped passengers through dusty neighborhoods on its journey out of town.

The old Henschel & Sohn steam engine labored up the steep slope of the Esquel valley. Before long we were rewarded with unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains as well as Parque Nacional Los Alerces, west of town saddling the international border with Chile.

La Trochita’s coaches, built circa 1922 and equipped with pot-bellied stoves, were now bustling with activity. Without the aid of a sound system, the tour guide provided a history of the train barely audible over the chattering passengers and squeaking cars.

Above the din, a family of musicians filled the air with the rhythmic sounds of Argentine traditional, folklorico, music. The color and texture of the man’s tattered gaucho hat matched his dark, weathered skin. He strummed his guitar confidently while his wife lyrically described the struggle of daily life in Patagonia.

“Sueño del alma que a veces muere sin florecer” (Dream of the soul that at times dies without flourishing), she warbled.

Camlin nudged me and pointed to the blissful face of a newborn child swaddled in a woven blanket held closely in the singer’s arms; the child lulled by the familiar sounds of his mother’s sweet voice. The performance was a welcome diversion from loud thrashing sounds heard outside the coach indicative of the growing turmoil of our locomotive.

Problems are nothing new for La Trochita. The national decline of Patagonia rail lines began in the 1970’s due to the inability to compete with alternative modes of transportation. By the 1990’s, they were all but abandoned except for La Trochita, special in the hearts and minds of those who traveled its steely rails. The local government responded to public outcry to save the legendary train and keep the train rolling for future generations.

The train’s neck-snapping jolts and exceedingly slow pace suggested today’s ride was not moving to plan. Typically La Trochita runs at a top speed of 20 miles/hour; we were barely crawling. The coaches lurched forward as the engine coughed its characteristic black smoke. A dull grumble of concern grew within the rank and file. Even Camlin, typically brewing with optimism, was beginning to show signs of doubt. “Dad, why are we stopping again?” he asked. His question remained unanswered.

Now 40 minutes into our trip, we began to pick up speed but heading in the wrong direction. Our tour guide reappeared to inform us that she too had no idea what was going on –honest but far from helpful.

Twenty minutes later we were safely back in the Esquel train station due to “engine problems.” Sometimes vague answers are sufficient.

To their credit, the train company offered a full refund for the excursion. My wife made a dash to the ticket counter. Within minutes the office resembled the bank run at the Bailey Saving & Loan in It’s a Wonderful Life with people waving their tickets in the air demanding a cash refund. Fortunately she was third in line and triumphantly returned flush with Argentine pesos.

Surprisingly Camlin took the entire adventure in stride. With remarkable insight, he reminded me, “La Trochita is the Old Patagonia Express, Dad. They just need time to fix it. We’ll come back when they’re done.”

On the platform in Esquel, we vowed to return to give the loveable legend another run. I expect La Trochita will proudly carry its passengers directly into the relentless wind of Patagonia for many years to come.

Timetable:

Tourist train (2 ½ hours RT, US$8); two departures most days in high season (Jan – Feb, July-Aug); weekly on Saturdays the rest of the year;

service available from both Esquel and El Maitén.

Annual service from Esquel to El Maitén and return during annual festival in February (6 ½ hours one-way, US$28 RT).

When to go:

Spring and summer in Patagonia are spectacular; consider shoulder season to avoid peak travel.

Where to stay:

Hotels are limited in El Maitén making Esquel a more attractive base for exploration.

How to get there:

Flights from the U.S. to Argentina start around US$700 RT.

Aerolineas Argentina offers flights from Buenos Aires to Esquel from US$200 RT.

www.aerolineasargentinas.com

Other useful information:

Argentina Tourist Information, 12 W. 56th St., New York, NY 10019; (212) 603-0443

http://www.turismo.gov.ar/eng/menu.htm

Date Traveled: December 2004

BOOK REVIEWS

Complete Article List

Travel News

Send this Page to a Friend

<|Add to Bookmarks

Get Published Here! Contact Us!

Hotel Search Sydney Paris Madrid

EXCITING NEWS!

CLICK HERE TO HEAR US LIVE

on Destination Worldview

11:30 A.M. (NY time) some Wednesdays

Every Wednesday get Latest Travel Tips and views while you work on your computer

Streaming Internet broadcast on WWW.TTRN.COM

Talking Travel with Roy Lowey and Friends

Every Wednesday

11 A.M. (New York Time)

Peace for Everyone

Subscribers:So that your free subscription is not mistaken for spam, please copy and paste our E-mail address

into your address book:

mail@realtraveladventures.com

It's that simple!

Free Monthly Subscriptions

Real Travel Adventures International Magazine

Adventure Travels in your Free Ezine

Monthly Subscriptions

If any links don't work

PLEASE NOTIFY US

Home Next Page Previous Page

Thanks for visiting us!

Real Travel Adventures International Magazine

Real and Armchair Travelers: Enjoy best trip reviews, travel features, and excellent travel photos in RealTravelAdventures.com, your FREE on-line international magazine. Send your funny or outrageous travel experiences & photos and get published!

Visit or dream of fascintating places with Real Travel Adventures e-zine! This site offers travel humor, photos, stories, helpful guidebooks, and more. Visit for fun or to seek tips for your next travel adventure...and then share your own stories with us here at

realtraveladventures.com, your free online travel magazine, where you'll find great book reviews, international travel adventures magazine, airline tickets, real travel adventures, camping, RV travel, RV's, Cruises, restaurant reviews, RVing, FamilyTrips, traveling with kids and children, Nature and eco trips, ecology, international travel, Ski Trips, Spas, Spiritual Retreats, interviews with Special People, Travel Humor, Travel News, Unbelievable, WeddingTrips, restaurant reviews and advisor, traveling adventures, adventure travels, travel, virtual and armchair travel, Back Roads, off the beaten path, where to go Camping and enjoy RV trips, where to Dine and Sleep, fun Family Trips, our Favorite Finds, Arts and Crafts, cruises and cruise vacations, romantic trips, traveling tips, travel stories, audio book reviews for your travels, books reviews, good books for a trip, wedding trip planner, wedding Trips, Honeymoons, Unbelievable adventures, Travel News, humorous travel stories, spas and retreats, spiritual retreats, meditation retreats, ski trips, week-end trips Near You, nature's Best places, ecology trips, travel guide books, traveling with children, e-zines, FREE Ezines, Free travel magazines, magazine, free online magazines, internet magazines, free magazine subscriptions, web magazines, true stories, humorous articles, funny features, human interest features, nature photos, environment photographs, photos, adventurous stories, real true stories, true adventrues, camping gear, vacation, holidays, safaris, Caribbean vacations, cheap hotels, great places to go, nature hikes, nature photography, family vacations, family holidays, trip planner, great trips, scenic photos, holiday vacations, holidays, holiday stories, foreign destinations, International travel trips. And you can Get published here too! Send us your travel stories and pictures.

If you wish to use our features or photos you must first contact us