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Iguazú, The World's Largest Falls
© 2004 Bonita Productions Inc.
Flag of Argentina
Iguazú, The World's Largest Falls
Copyright 2004 by Bonnie Neely
Photos Copyright 2004 by Bill Neely
We had travelled to South America especially to see the world's largest waterfalls, amazing Iguazú Falls, which is at the intersection of Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina. The Falls themselves, named from the native word meaning "Big Waters," are situated on the friendly border between Brazil and Argentina, and the two countries share the surrounding jungle as two National Parks.We decided to make this primarily an Argentine trip, and we were so glad we did. Although we could have travelled on an American airline, we chose to get the full South American experience by flying via the native airline, Aerolineas Argentinas. (International number: 0-810-222- 86527) We flew first to Buenos Aires for several days of sight-seeing in this captivating, cultural city, where 19th century grandeur is set in wide boulevards with grand parks and many trees, and 20th century architecture is mingled in. This capital city is the birthplace of the Tango and home of world-famous soccer teams. On Aerolineas Argentinas we got the full benefit of comfortable international travel with excellent meals and service. Another benefit of flying this airline is that you can get an all inclusive ticket which takes you also to the Falls. After a few days in the capital city we continued our flight on Aerolineas Argentinas to Ciudade de Iguazú. We were glad our camera was handy because we circled the Falls for a great overall view and photos.
We were delighted to find that we had made, by far, the best choice of hotels. We chose the Hotel Sheraton International Iguazú Resort, the only hotel allowed inside the Parque Internacional Iguazú . (There is also one hotel allowed inside the Brazilian National Parque.) The Sheraton Iguazú is an ultra-modern hotel with all the best amenities and beautifully appointed rooms. The Sheraton has wonderful facilities to meet anyone's desires or any group's needs: large swimming pool; excellent tennis courts; superb meals in lovely, spacious dining facilities; a unique underground discoteque with above ground glass domed ceiling; a good gameroom; beautifully kept grounds; and perfectly groomed pathways through the jungle for easy walks to the Falls, which we could see in the distance from our balcony room. 
Just five minutes' walk away we could board a little free tram, or boat rides, or find handicap access. Additionally, there is a good car and guide service, Empresa Ecologia S.R.L., located exclusively at the Sheraton Iguazú (email remisecologia@arnet.com.ar or omarfz771@yahoo.com.ar) (tel/Fx 03757-421952) with personable guides who speak several languages. Although no guide is needed for seeing the Falls, you can see much of the surrounding countryside and points of interest for a very nominal fee. However, from all other hotels you must arrive by bus. Make your hotel reservations early because the hotel inside each park is always filled. 
We spent our thrilling first day taking many hikes and walkways to different viewpoints of the falls on the Argentine side. From the Sheraton Iguazú these are wonderful, easy walks on cement walkways or steel bridgeways, most completely level and wheelchair accessible. If wheelchairs are needed they are available by asking in the hotel or at the Parque offices. Our first evening at Sheraton Iguazú we had an absolutely delicious and enormous buffet, with every choice conceivable beautifully displayed, in the buffet dining room. There is also a more formal dining area, with an elegant menu, which features live music each evening. We returned to sit on our balcony to look for the Southern Cross in the black sky which burst with more stars than we had ever seen. We could hear the roar of the Falls in the distance.
The Falls are shrouded in mist until about 8:00 AM, but bird watching is excellent around 6 a.m. for early risers. You must make a reservation the day before and meet at the Visitor Center to go with an ornithologist at 6:30 AM for several hours through the jungle paths to see perhaps 60 species of birds. We saw many beautiful ones including flocks of parrots and pairs of tucans. We followed this with a huge and delicious breakfast buffet (included with the rooms). The array included meats, cheeses, egg dishes, hot and cold cereals, fruits, and so much more.
The second day we boarded the free tram to see Garanta de Diablo, the only falls located on the Brazilian side but which are best viewed from this side. The train also travels to the Visitor Center. It leaves every half hour and people line up 30 minutes to one hour ahead. When we disembarked from the open train we walked just over a half mile on an excellent bridge out over the huge river at its peaceful wide shallows. We saw many birds and lush vegetation and trees growing at different spots in the gentle rapids. The grillwork walkway is perfect for strollers and wheelchairs, which are provided at the park. The walkway would be difficult for a handicap-walker. At the end of the long walkway the railing overlooks the enormous falls. We spent over an hour enjoying the views and photographing.
On our return walk we stopped to purchase, for a few pesos each, carved and brightly painted wood objects: monkeys, cheetahs, toucans, and coatamundi, bows and arrows, dart blow sticks, and colorful woven cloth articles, all handmade by the local Indians. There are three Guarani Indian villages of about 150 people each within the park area. These natives are given small pensions by the government but eek out a meager living. There are only a few allowed to sell within the park and there is no other commercialization at all within this pristine, natural wonderland. This makes Niagra Falls pale by comparison since its beauty has been prostituted by materialism. 
Next, we purchased a combo ticket to take a boat through the jungle on the peaceful river tributary and to go by another boat beneath the falls. We first took the jungle tour in an orange rubber pontoon boat with big life jackets and our Argentine guide gave us a half-hour tour of the quiet part of Iguazú River, which farther down becomes the great falls, the formation having been created by volcanic eruption. The River is bordered on all the bayous by great, dense jungle, although not so dense nor nearly so high as the Amazon Rainforest. We stopped to see a young caiman napping. Our guide told us about many of the jungle flora and flauna. Always take hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. We saw no insects and have been told by everyone we asked that no malaria exists in this province. Iguazú Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is comprised of 275 individual water falls, ranging from are 38 - 90 meters high. Normally the waterfalls run 2,500 cubic meters per second increasing to 5,000 in rainy season. In 1978 there was no rain so one could walk to the island San Martin. In 1993 the region had six months of rain, which increased the volume to 11,000 cubic meters per inch. Total width is 2,040 meters ( about a mile and a third) of all the falls together.
We returned from the boat ride on an open truck fitted with very comfortable seats and stopped for lunch at the outdoor bar restaurant near the Sheraton. The food was very good, fast, and inexpensive.
After an hour's rest we were ready to go again. We headed to our 2:30PM appointment for the Adventure Boat trip from the Argentine side. We walked the path near the hotel to board another large open vehicle with good seats for our ecology drive through the jungle. The guide told us there are 100 kinds of mammals, 400 bird species, 2,000 plant species, and 40 reptiles including 7 kinds of snakes, 20 amphibian species within this jungle. We shuddered when he stopped the truck to show us the nearly one-meter-long coral snake slithering across the road and disappearing into the dense vegetation. Fortunately they are scared of people, but they do bite and death occurs in about 3 hours if the victim cannot get to a hospital's antivenom. First Aid is readily available throughout the National Park.
We descended many steps to board our boat, a large, orange rubber adventure boat of the most modern kind, with a powerful engine and good life jackets. Off we sped, ascending the rapids toward the falls. The driver gave each person a plastic bag to protect possessions and stopped before we got to the misty places and warned us to put away our cameras. We were so happy we had purchased a waterproof, disposable camera, so we could keep snapping. Bring, or purchase, a poncho because you get completely soaked. I was glad I placed my shoes in the plastic bag. We passed very close to many of the falls and under the Three Muskateers Falls and the San Martin Falls. The boat also stops so visitors who wish to do so can board a ferry to San Martin Island and walk up the many steps to the top of the falls. It was lots of fun, and the company's safety record is excellent. After the long climb up the mountainside of cement stairs with good railing and beautiful views we were glad to get to our room to dry off and rest after our very active day.
The closest town, Ciudade de Iguazú, is interesting for tourists to see. Many other hotels are there. Built on the confluence of Iguazú River and Parana River, the town is completely surrounded and protected by the National Parque. It seems to be the last completely safe place to live in all the world…virtually no crime at all.
At Tres Bordados Parque you can see the points of land for the three countries coming together at the rivers. There are little kiosks here for buying lots of handcrafted souvenirs.Food is excellent quality and good price here, with many restaurants from which to choose. Brazilian locals come over for the best meat in the world. All the meals we ate anywhere in Argentina were delicious and reminded us of grandma's home cooking when we were children…so fresh and all prepared naturally.
A local recommended El Quincho de Tio Querido, where we enjoyed a delicious dinner of Argentinean specialities, freshly prepared and so tasty. Be sure to have beef, the Argentinean beef is the best in the world, and try the most delicious fish you'll ever find, surubi, because it only is found here in Cuidade de Iguazú. You will also want to try the delicious potato-like vegetable, mantioca, which is also a native favorite. And even if you normally don't like beer, try the mild and smooth Argentinean Quilmez. Argentine wines are also very good. We enjoyed eating in the outdoor garden setting while we were serenaded by three talented local musicians playing many well-known favorites on the panflute, accordian, and guitar.
From Ciudade de Iguazú it is possible to take a fascinating horseback ride for two hours through the jungle, past the Guarani Indian village. Ask your concierge to make arrangements. You can also see the Falls in a helicopter, which costs about $60 US and has a very good safety record.
The only Casino in the area is in Ciudade de Iguazu, open weeknights 6pm until 5 am., weekends 2 pm till 6 am. The restaurant inside has excellent food but more expensive, and there is a smoky atmosphere.
To go to the Brazil side of the Falls, or into Paraguay you need a visa if you are a citizen of Canada, US, or Australia. Many South American tourists go across the bridge into Paraguay where electronics and many other items are about 50 percent cheaper than at home. However, the prices are high for other foreigners and pickpockets are prevalent and skilled. If you buy something on the street you are likely to receive change in counterfeit money also. You can cross the bridge by foot, but many tourists are robbed there in the crowds. If you go by car or bus allow much extra time because the traffic lines are very, very long. Go only with an experienced local guide from a reputable hotel.
On our last day we took the Circuit Superior trail from the Sheraton. It is a long level, metal sidewalk of bridges and footpaths to the top of the Three Muskateers Falls. Along the way we saw monkeys in the trees and a flock of green parrots. It was cool and wonderful walking under the trees to the beautiful views, and many orchids bloom along this path.
Later we walked to the Lower Circuit, which has lots of steps…seemed like hundreds! We hiked down seeing exquisite views of the falls all along the way and taking many photos, some of which required a waterproof camera. We finally arrived at the bottom with shakey muscles and boarded the free ferry to San Martin Island, a five-minute ride. We got off and had to climb several hundred more steep stone steps, but if you are physically able it is well worth it. For here on San Martin you get the very best Falls views of any place on the Argentine side. It was really breathtaking! Take a waterproof wide angle camera and tripod for the best shots of the entire trip. Unfortunately, we did not have one and could not take photos because the heavy mist is almost like rain. The panorama of falls extends for nearly a 140 degree viewing angle! Surely this is the most powerfully beautiful site on earth! Too perfect to have to say good-bye, but our time had come. 
We were at Iguazu Falls for three nights and nearly four days and wished we had allowed a full week. If you can plan that much time, by all means do so.IF YOU GO:
The only part of the Falls that is located on the Brazilian side is Garganta de Diablo, and if you choose to go to the Brazilian side you can stay in the National Park at Hotel, the only one allowed in the Parque on that side. There are many other hotels and service for tourism in the nearby town of , but tourists must be careful there at night. Brazil now requires a $100 visa for American tourists. Although it is good for ten years, it does add to the cost of your initial trip. However, because most of the Falls are located on the Argentine side, that means the Brazilian side has the best views. On one walkway we stood right on top of one huge waterfall with the enormous Floriana Falls roaring down beside us… a heady and thrilling experience. If you take a boat ride on the Brazillian side you will pass under the Balcony Falls. People with any handicap or heart condition that prevents climbing or walking far should take the boat on the Brazilian side and ask for the special arrangements (at no extra cost). These tourists will be delivered directly to the boat and returned afterwards without walking. The boat trip beneath the falls on the Brazilian side is a little more dangerously thrilling and appeals more to young people. The parks close at 6 pm, with the last bus out at 6:30 pm. Real Travel Adventures International Magazine
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