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The Low-Down on Lowcountry, South Carolina
© 2005 Nancy S. Tardy
![]() Chapel of Ease, St Helena Island, SC
“The Noise You Hear is the Sound of Freedom” on the signs around the Beaufort, SC area reminds visitors that those U.S. Marine Corps jets circling low over the area are intent on performing their mission. But, don’t let that dissuade you from visiting this area, which is rich in history, natural beauty and warm hospitality. Additionally, both historic cities of Savannah, GA and Charleston, SC, with airports serving major air carriers, are just over a hour away from Beaufort (pronounced locally as bew’ fort), adding to the ease of basing oneself in this charming town of less than 10,000 population.
The area surrounding Beaufort is an almost endless expanse of water; from slow meandering rivers, to a bay front and deepwater port and ever-changing tidal marshes. In this expanse, over 60 large islands and a couple of thousand small islands provide endless vistas, though it confounds the highway-building processes. Better than driving, consider a boat or kayak tour around some of the islands. Some of the options for lowcountry kayaking include Beaufort Kayak Tours and The Kayak Farm about 15 minutes south of Beaufort on Highway 21.
Depending on your needs and desires, lodging choices range from any number of chain and local motels to elegant bed & breakfast options and waterfront or golf condos on the nearby islands. For Beaufort options click here. (Be careful to determine that the Beaufort listings you are perusing and the tickets you buy are for South Carolina, not North Carolina, as I once did in error.)
For an elegant and romantic option, consider The Beaufort Inn and Restaurant, and find yourself transported back to another time of gracious style. Other B & Bs in the Historic District include The Craven Street Inn and The Cuthbert House Inn. Or, if you want to come home after a day of sightseeing or sports to a quiet vista of marsh or ocean, contact the resort rentals at Daufuskie, Fripp, Harbor or Hilton Head Islands. Harbor and Fripp Island are more centrally located to Beaufort and its wealth of shopping, dining and touring options. Daufuskie and Hilton Head Islands, while only 20-30 miles as the crow flies, require a 45 minute to one hour drive.
Any season is a good time to visit lowcountry. Most tourists arrive in spring and autumn to take advantage of the mild, sunny weather; but even the short winter season from December 1 to February 28 offers many comfortable touring days without the busyness of high seasons or the humid heat of the summer.
Are you a lighthouse connoisseur? The recently refurbished lighthouse located at Hunting Island State Park, 22 miles south of Beaufort on Highway 21 South, is now open. Thousands of visitors each year climb the 175 steps to its top for breathtaking views of the ocean and marsh. Noted for its broad beach and heavily forested upland areas; Hunting Island, named for its use as a hunting preserve in the 1800s, offers hiking and mountain biking trails, camping and cabins, a boat ramp, fishing pier and wildlife viewing. It is a nesting site for loggerhead turtles from May to August, and restrictions are in place on the Hunting Island beach to protect this endangered species.
![]() The Hunting Island Lighthouse
Sign up for a guided tour by road, water or walking. In addition to the kayak tours mentioned above, other interesting options include narrated tours of the Historic District by carriage or bus, various power boat tours which include historic sights and dolphin watching, a Gullah tour of the islands, or a walking tour of Old Beaufort accompanied by singing guides.
If exploring back roads appeals to you, point your car in any direction and head down the nondescript sand roads. Your road will inevitably end at water’s edge, but the sights you’ll see along the way make backtracking acceptable. One example is Fort Fremont on St. Helena Island. A Civil War fort, built to protect the lowcountry from Union invasion along Port Royal Sound, it is now slowly decaying into a picturesque mound of walls and stone staircases. Though located on private property, it is accessible and worth a visit.
![]() Fort Fremont Ruins
Or take Land’s End Road off Highway 21 South of Beaufort and stop at the Chapel of Ease ruins dating from 1748. It is an excellent example of tabby construction; a mixture of oyster shells, lime and sand. Near the Chapel of Ease is the Penn Center, a National Historic Landmark District, which was established in 1862 as one of the first schools in the South for African-Americans freed from slavery. It serves now as a museum, conference center, and cultural center with programs and demonstrations devoted to local history and arts.
Visit the area any season of the year, and you will almost always find a local festival to attend. In July, the Water Festival runs for ten days, while October brings the Fall Festival of Houses and Gardens and the Fall Shrimp Festival.
Don’t forget to take a leisurely stroll through the Historic District, shopping at the unique small stores and view the architecture of South Carolina’s second-oldest city. Since the Union occupied the town during the Civil War, it was spared from the destruction that so many other southern cities endured. Not only is the historic area one of the state’s three national landmark districts, but Beaufort has been named one of the twelve “Distinctive Destinations” in the country by the National Trust for Historic Preservation where the past and present mingle comfortably.
![]() Shopping with Sue in one of the quaint Beaufort shops
Do bring your appetite with you when you visit lowcountry. The Historic District of Beaufort is home to many fine restaurants, as well as small, inexpensive casual cafes. If your budget can afford only one fine dining experience, you’ll have to choose from The Beaufort Inn Restaurant, The 11th St. Dockside Restaurant in Port Royal, the Saltus River Grill, or Bateaux, located a few miles away. For lunch or a light supper, try Panini’s Café, Plums, John Cross Tavern, or Kathleen’s Grill; while Blackstone’s is the place that Beaufort meets for breakfast. When out of the historic district at meal time, many fun and tasty options are available. Don’t miss The Shrimp Shack on St. Helena Island where huge shrimp burgers, slaw and French-fried sweet potatoes will leave you clamoring for more. Also, Steamers serves up delicious sea food, steaks and their specialty, Frogmore Stew. If you’re in the Hunting Island area, stop in at Johnson Creek Restaurant and Tavern for an enjoyable, albeit a noisy evening.
Lowcountry has something for everyone. Slow your pace, relax and enjoy.
BEFORE YOU GO:
Beaufort Chamber of Commerce 1-800-638-3525 www.beaufortsc.org
The Beaufort Inn and Restaurant 809 Port Republic St. 1-843-521-9000 www.beaufortinn.com
The Craven Street Inn 1103 Craven St. 1-888-522-0250 www.thecravenstreetinn.com
The Cuthbert House Inn 1203 Bay St. 1-800-327-9275 www.cuthberthouseinn.com
Historic Beaufort www.historic-beaufort.org
Harbor Island Rentals 1-800-553-0251 www.harborisland-sc.com
Hunting Island State Park 2555 Sea Island Pkwy. www.southcarolinaparks.com
Ace Basin Tours 1-866-521-3099 www.acebasintours.com
Beaufort Kayak Tours 1-843-525-0810 www.beaufortkayaktours.com
The Kayak Farm 1-843-838-2008 thekayakfarm@islc.net
Penn Center 110 Martin Luther King Dr. St. Helena Island, SC 1-843-838-2432
The Saltus River Grill 802 Bay St. 1-843-379-3474 www.saltusrivergrill.com
11th St. Dockside Restaurant 1699 11th St. W. in Port Royal 1-843-524-7433 www.lowcountrydining.com
Bateaux 27 Whitehall Landing 1-843-379-0777
Panini’s Café 926 Bay St. 1-843-379-0300
Plums 904 ½ Bay St. 1-843-525-1946
John Cross Tavern 812 Bay St. 1-843-524-3993
Kathleen’s Grill 822 Bay St. 1-843-524-2500
Blackstone’s 205 Scott St. 1-843-524-4330
The Shrimp Shack 1925 Sea Island Parkway, St. Helena Island 1-843-838-2962
The Original Steamer Oyster and Steakhouse 168 Sea Island Parkway, Lady’s Island 1-843-522-0210
Johnson Creek Restaurant and Tavern 2141 Sea Island Parkway, Harbor Island 1-843-838-4166
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